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Take a look at this for some feedback on crash resistance of a Series 3!! Land rover | Facebook

I have a restored on galavanised chassis 1982 SWB Series 3 with 200tdi conversion.. and I took out a policy from Adrian Flux with agreed value of £5000. However at just 16:30 on the day policy began a Calibra pulled out in front of me with the result that the vehicle is a write off. Now here the...

I have a restored on galavanised chassis 1982 SWB Series 3 with 200tdi conversion.. and I took out a policy from Adrian Flux with agreed value of £5000. However at just 16:30 on the day policy began a Calibra pulled out in front of me with the result that the vehicle is a write off. Now here the...

Mine has 300 Turbo & manifold, with defender downpipe with a little dent in it to avoid the engine mount and clamp jointed to a 2" stainless sports exhaust, it's not that noisy even without an exhaust, the turbo does most of the silencing!

Mine 200tdi series 3 was straight out of a Disco unchanged but I did put in a new radiator (discovery radiator) and it doesn't even make it to half way up the scale even at 70 on the motorway.

I was in a rush so paid more for the motor than I would have done if I waited. The lump with 300TDI turbo cost £550, Parts: £400 (new radiator, full service, clutch, pipes etc) Labour £600 Total was around £1600 all inc for a SWB series 3 conversion.

Yes I did the same for my SWB Series 3 200tdi conversion! The original turbo was too close to the chassis rails!

Re the rear diff seal, very cheap to buy and yes you can change without a strip down. Just make sure the seal is pressed well home so that the centre lip doesn't stand proud.

I figured as much so thought I'd ask before taking a knife to them!

OK, I used WD40 & coppergrease..all I had at the time, I've done a search and imersion in hot water appears to help as well. The temp was only around 7 degrees so that may have made them a bit stiffer.

I've spent the afternoon trying to fit some floflex bushes to my 1982 series 3 SWB (with bearmach parabolics), the challenge is that the shoulder is very hard to get in to the chassis mounts which are just wide enough for the springs. Lots of lubrication and work with a crowbar finally got them...

Just done a quick web search and I wonder if I've done them right, it appears the raised lip should be flush with the casing not the outer part of the seal:Replacing the diff pinion oil seal. - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum Am this right? Cheers Charles

Well done I did mine this week as well, the old metal one was murder to get out and the rubber one at the front was pushed right in so glad I got them sorted!

I've tried setting up with a timing light and it was hopeless! By ear is the only way! Mine came all set up from simonbbc but wouldn't fire until I adjusted the electronic 'points'.

Mine are bolted to the rear bulkhead and work fine, no MOT problems either.

I may have a healthy 5mb 2.25 in the next few weeks, swapping mine for the same again but a 1:9 Stage 1 head.

The most effective is a heated screen!!

I agree, it is probably friendliest face of Land Rovers and 4x4's in general and avoids the anti4x4 and jealous attention a larger more modern 4x4 may attract.