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Yep total disaster! Loads of fire and nasty fumes don't do what I did! Paint all came off anyway, just weld through primer then weld and hope you can get some paint inside afterwards.

As it would be difficult to get inside of the outrigger when welded on I stripped it using some original Nitromors I found in the shed (in a well ventilated, forced extraction garage) and pressure washed it then re-applied the paint stripper more pressure washing worked a treat! Obviously...

Nope, nothing like that on my browser, when I phoned them they told me if I was logged in it 'saved automatically' then after I recreated the order when logged it crashed again:) I am running on Linux but with the latest version of Chromium maybe the save facility is available on Windows but I...

Which site? I have sadly not found that facility!

Just a heads up if you end up having a large online shopping list be aware Paddocks and LRDirect will/can crash and loose everything even if logged in BUT you can save the basket page as a html file so you can see what you chose from the many various brands etc for each part and quantities and...

Good to know! I have found a few part numbers which are OEM but now have been superseded, grey area I guess. I have been using this site which seems to have current part numbers :- https://www.landroverworkshop.com

Spent the last 3 days going through parts catalogue for part numbers and have been trying to go for genuine when its not multiples of 10 more than OEM, but seeing Britpart as OEM for a lot of things is worrying me. BTW hands down Paddocks is the most unpleasant experience for website crashing...

I know Britpart has been roasted BUT is a Britpart part OK if its OEM? Is a Allmakes OEM part better than a Britpart OEM? Or is A Bearmach (has a 3 year warranty) non OEM better than both of them?

I have a replacement front outrigger and it has rubbish black paint which is bubbling and scratched etc. I dont want to get it shot blasted as my local place has become so expensive its not worth it. The pics I have seen of people doing the job have left the paint on, is that really a good...

Thanks for reply but now I can't get the track rod out the way its pretty rusted I guess I can cut it as cheap enough to replace. I think I need a special joint puller tool which I don't have but feel I might need one.

And as if by magic WD works! Will it come out without removing steering track rod?

I can't get inline bolt off at the end neat petrol tank? Don't want to use blow torch as it a bit close, any suggestions don't look like I can cut it either. Have sprayed loads of WD but its not budging.

Hi I am trying to get the front outrigger off and the radius arm is kinda in the way. Am OK to remove it while all wheels are under load? Thanks

I spoke to some paint shop today and apparently that it used to be the case but not now its ok. Seems like no need to t-wash it just etch prime, its so confusing:) Also advised to roller on 2k high fill primer and sand down instead of filler.

What primer did you use etch or epoxy? I am reading you can not pit filler over etch but in my head I should prime before filler. Also reading mordant solution is a etch primer so does that mean can't filler on top of that either?

No its like a thin steel sheet that is maybe welded on the top side of the frame(between the frame and the card side) its the piece in my picture which I have lifted and it is rusted.

Did you put back this thin sheet on top of the frame?

Pulled the card away and I have thin sheet going across the card side of the bottom frame. I don't see this in any repair posts or pics on google. Do I need to replace it or just repair section of frame enough. Looks like a rust trap. Thanks

Cool!

Had it done and it came really nice but one of the contained nuts came off when I was re threading it! So go slow with the tap if you do have one galved:-) I got some Mordant Solution to apply next can I ask the people who have it done how they dealt with the roughness of the finish its really...