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Took the sump off for a reseal as it was leaking like a cow. Found an 8mm socket (not mine!) and this metal piece, which I was wondering if anyone knows whether it looks like something out of a 300tdi or just some rubbish.

Land Rover owners deleting the extra options on their cars as they just cause more problems. If I am to ever get a Discovery again, it will only be for a very very basic, no option model :vb-disagree:

I don't know where OP is from, but the problem is that in some countries additional lights can be illegal, like the spots and LED bar in my profile picture. When you have to rely only on the Discovery headlights, I guess those expensive bulbs can make a difference. Especially with the facelift...

Spent four hours replacing an u joint on the front prop and greased all the others. Grease pumps are so much fun

Wow, I have had the same problem on a P38, seal will start leaking within 100km of fitting, no matter what. Just accepted it and have been driving like that as I thought it needed a new shaft and wasn't prepared to throw the money. Will take the shaft to a machine shop after reading this.

I believe it was already the brass plug, it wasn't plastic. Or it might be aluminium. It's the lip that cracked. Definitely. It's a shady plastic sort of plug and I already had a scare once when I thought I cross threaded it. It takes forever to get parts here, and to go in town and look for...

Yup, haven't had any problems since, apart from the fact that I must've tightened the thermostat plug too hard and it broke a bit at the edge... had to botch it with silicone until I get another one with a bigger order from paddocks. Engine hasn't overheated and level has not once dropped in...

If they were the same size that would be perfect as I have a spare P38A pump as well... zero costs until getting the job done properly later on.

Yeah, I saw Mike's video on it. I'm thinking if it's doable in situ, because I don't have the tools to take the pump off and keep the timing. Those plus a vice and the seal, the individual shipping and duties, I might as well do most of them on my old pump and fit that instead. If it can be...

Hello, this might seem a bit silly, but have you checked if the ECU is free of oil?

Thank you, I'll do just the same!

I will attempt to change all, or at least most of the seals, gaskets and washers on my spare pump and fit that in. But until that is done, I will try some sealant as discool suggested, if it doesn't hold, I will try to find just the rear seal and replace it in situ. @lynall - could you let me...

Left rear brake has been getting stuck sometimes, to the point where it stinks and the rim is hot. I put new guide pins on the caliper and greased them accordingly, but problem hasn't gone away. We got another caliper to replace the old one (not brand new) and it seemed to fix the issue. But on...

I've had it changed as the old one was leaking like a cow. After 1000km the replacement has also started leaking. It looks like the rear seal, however I wanted to know if the gap in the picture is normal? I think the old one was flush. Red arrow showing gap, blue arrow showing bolt I assumed to...

Please make a thread with the restoration process here. I've watched Crocker and his work is amazing I would say, but the discovery not rusty enough! Mine also needs a lot of metal, although I am probably getting better mileage now that it's lighter

So today, even though it was only -6 or so, it would still only click. So, out of frustration, and wanting to hear whether it was a relay or the solenoid, I clicked it repeatedly and surprise, it started turning! The starter could do with a replacement or refurbishment at some point, its been...

I'm afraid the neighbours would call the environmental police, and I only need it twice a week or so

Tomorrow it will be a bit warmer and I expect it to start, but after that it will get cold again and I can't get stranded away from town. Which electrics could freeze? I don't mind bringing the whole relay box indoors overnight, lol, but if it's the starter solenoid than I guess a new one is the...

Hello, My 300Tdi won't start, battery full, clean connections but when turning the key I just get a single relay click and that's all. I tried a jumper cable from the negative onto the engine block and same thing. It's the first time it's happened. It was -22 degrees C today so all I can think...

I'm thinking the most no-nonsense approach is directly on the crank pulley, but it's difficult to crawl under and get a reading. I guess that's what I'll do, no point in messing about with ratios and whatnot.