Search results

Just done mine today after both brushes went on top of dampers inside the turrets and rusted turrents. So new galvanised turrents. Rings. Gas dampers. Nuts at bottom of dampers rounded. So drilled holes and splitter with chisel ride is better now

Thanks everyone. I was hoping not to touch the springs but looks like I will have to. In that case I will order galvanised turrets spring rings and retainers and bolts new shocks and springs. Might well. Lol

Hitting damn spell check. Not hotting lol.

Hello. My turrents has given away. Rust. Thus the top of shock struts is hotting the inner wing cover etc. I wonder can I remove them with touching the springs ? By removing the bottom nut of the struts then undo the four bolts of turrents and pull the whole thing out ? Possible ?

Both of my front strut absorbers the brushes at the top has gone through the rusty turrets. So I will need to replace turrets with new galvanised ones but I wonder it is false enconmy to re use the struts ?

Mm. Mine is also FFR fitted for radio too. Hardtop 90 I think the first call is service the diesel pump by specialist then have it serviced by me and see how that go.

Mm looks like I will need to change the tranny on mine to 1:4 and have it tuned by speclalist diesel garage. And will need to add pas on and that is it. It is good engine this 2.5n/a but I think the 1:6 tranny is holding it back. Cheers

Mine cruise at 55mph. 60mph is pushing and screaming noise. Maybe it is I got the 1:6 transfer as issued for the army as it is ex military. If I swapped to 1:4 will that make it huge different ?

Hello. Me again. Me and the missus had a chat as we have sold our house to bigger house. And decided to keep the defender for now. ( yippee).

Hi guys. This is a sad moment but I'm selling my defender 90 ex military it has become impractical for my daily and everyday use. I don't go off road or any tracks. The only time I do is over kerbs at roundabout lol. So I wish to say thanks to you all guys for the valuable help that I have...

Flat. The actual switch ? U reakon. ? Could it be that simple ? Lol.

Like biketeacherdave said above. I have a sandblaster tool. 20 quid. I use sand in bucket and it is quite easy to do it yourself. Use mask and safety glasses. If you want to shot blast aluminium. Use baking soda power. Then spray high heat temp paint on the calibers then clear lacquer.

Hi. I have changed the stop solenoid valve no difference. Then when it was running the wire (white) to the solenoid I pulled it off and it stops the engine. That tells me it is not the solenoid issue. I think maybe alternator back feed. But I trace the power and it not from alternator...

Hello. I got a problem. When I switched the key ingition off and key is out of barrel. Engine still runs. So I thought the valve switch. But when I pull the wire off its connector engine stops. That tells me. Small current still feeding the stop valve. So I checked with voltmeter and even...

Thanks for the pics for the hood to be flipped. A great idea. One pic didn't work. One question I ask. U know the wings. At the bottom. Won't it catch the bulk head when tipped over or have u moved it slightly out space gap ?

Wow that is great idea. Flip front better access to engine. Pics of fittings ?

Ah of course. I have dual towing on the chassis is the original nato hitch and i added a civvy towbar below it

As my defender is ex military it has a NATO hook up for electrics and I wanted to keep it original so I made a adapter so that I can tow either civvy or NATO trailers -) :)

Nobber. I didn't use original bolt or anything. I made two up from m10 or m8 thread etc with double nuts locked off and washer. Yes I removed the locker for window. And same thing so I added a rubber glued to the end of the thing It hold window now. Popp riveted all back with sealant too...

Lol I agree. But I'm considering to look for mot scrapped disco to get the 200 tdi and put that in. With disco tyranny. And pas too -). So I'm sort of delaying the rear seal for the moment !!