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regulator is fine, its not over/undervolting, its bang on 14.4V

alot of money for a Fender with a few bolt on goodies. lots of £££ on goodies does not make for lots of £££ on sale price.

The diagram is fine, I ommited the lamp, figuring it was for a telltale rather than any functional purpose and I was going to fit a voltmeter for it anyway... apparently it is :) Good news is the diode pack (now confirmed as U/S) is only about a tenner :)

garage, should be around £100 for the kit, and a couple of hours labour. make sure they use OEM parts and not pattern, and make sure they know how to check if its been modified or not, though tbh if they dont, go elsewhere...

I wouldnt, did my 96 fender last year, still had the original setup, likewise a friend did their disco of similar vintage, again original setup. both of us were a little scared at the state of the belt we took off.

Done this (now) but not till after ive damaged the diodes (or strongly suspect I have) Had a look, at least new diode packs for it is only tenner. and my bad, yeah, of course theres no 12V at D+ with the engine off, duh.... whatever way I look at it, I did it wrong and broked it, and now I...

96, 300tdi, belt.

hmm, if you factor in what people have said so far. 4K for the base motor, 4K for parts, doesnt leave much of the 8-10 for their labour... I have no ideal on lobour rates, but if you allow £30p/h (which I suspect is stupidly cheap) its only 66 hours to rebuild a vehicle? seems optimistic.

cover or plug... try getting close enough and a good enough seal on an engine that is essentially a hooge air pump. CO2... as long as you can get/dare get close enough its viable decompression... no, or very few modern engines have this facility, its the reserve of old air start/hand start old...

ahh ballcocks.... im pretty sure you are correct sir... Dammit... hooked up a lil 3W rice lamp last night, and its not illuminating, I appear not to have 12V at the D+ when the engine is off either, which I beleive it should have, and I have a 1/4 amp discharge rate (250mA) looks like I'm...

It won't melt, as long as it's rated for the alternator, a 100A alt can't give more than 100A, any extra is to reduce voltage drop. 70mm for an alt would be overkill, 25mm would be fine. 35 more than enough

You need 35mm min for a winch 25mm ish for charging.

Is there not enough room under the bonnet, you'd need alot of heavy cable to get to the boot n back for the winch.

I will be running a winch eventually, currently just my aux stuff, I had the alt, and a spare leisure battery from my caravan, so figured I'd save space in me shed and stick it in me fender. I'll see if the lamp works, otherwise I figure I've damaged the regulator and it's backfeeding :-( I'll...

Have isolated it tonight :-)

Cheer I'll stick a lamp in circuit tomorrow and see what happens, it's charging fine with the engine running, so it works, but it's discharging the battery when it's off, presumably the lamp provides enough resistance to prevent it, if it has self exited I'm annoyed (with mesenteric) nm...

Reet. quick Q, or possibly... After researching, it was suggested that installing a second alternator, and have it spinning would be fine as longs as nothing was connected (ie it wasnt "exited") as unless it had exitement it wouldnt produce voltage, I am aware that normally running an alt...

never seen owt like that, cant see how it wold work either... If its just a small trailer, cant you pack up the hitch so the hitch on the trailer is higher, failing that the only options are a dixon bate type or a drop plate. unless you want to spent a few pennies on a receiver hitch.

tis my usual trick :)

plus got the mount of matt, had a spare 100A alt in the shed, a spare leisure battery from the old caravan, so why the hell not :)