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Also Ikea "Groggy" stainless tray 38cm £8 - actually measures 375mm o.d. and i.d. measures 325mm - o.d. 25mm less than genuine 400mm backplate . This one gives you 10mm clearance all round from the 304mm disc. This one has a much better profile.

40cm stainless dish - also 35cm and 45cm available but 40cm is the od of the genuine backplate. rear brake disc itself is 304mm dia so there should be 48mm clearance all round (400-304) = 96/2 = 48mm. unfortunately there is no cross section available to determine projection

Data, Yes I'm well aware of that, hence the importance of me having to adjust the collets to centre the shafts, after not bothering initially because I was advised to leave them alone. I have read somewhere that the new design of seal has greater tolerance of an off centre driveshaft, but I...

Has anyone thought of replacing their rusted backplates with 40cm dia stainless steel platters made in India lol ? Just need to chop a slot in them with a cutting disc and drill 3 holes. £20 quid instead of £200.

I managed to break the taper on the nearside lower balljoint with a 2 legged gear puller and adjusted the collet to centre the driveshaft, torqued the balljoint nut back up and checked the measurement against the offside which I had already centred. Both sides measure the same at 10mm from top...

I redid the pollen filter caps a while back with new thicker neoprene cut to shape and sealed the clips and the plenum covers with black silicone. Also took the roofrails and top and side windscreen trims off to check for seam cracks - all ok. Had an issue with one corroded wire in the loom by...

ha, Well I got all the jobs done that I listed. As advised I didn't free off and adjust the collets in the hub carriers, but when I reassembled everything both drive shafts were sitting approx 5mm low in the axle tube i.e. there wasn't an even gap above and below the steel disc that sits...

Well the car failed its mot on the 11th, both n/s and o/s front lower balljoints boots split , all 4 front lower shock absorber rubber bushes perished (not when i took them off to replace them they weren't), n/s/f cv gaiter outer clip missing - god knows when that parted company and the nearside...

Vemo in Germany also make the fronts Article №: V48-72-0082 OEM part number: ANR4686 and rears Article №: V48-72-0083 OEM part number: ANR4687 also Meat&Doria in Italy do the rears part number 38013

leak in connections or pipes at a guess - if compressor is new it can't be the solenoid seals or the pump piston - unless contaminated with dryer dust during fitment of new pump

Good to know. BTR bought Dunlop out years ago then sold Dunlop tyres to Sumitomo but kept the air suspension business, then Trelleborg took the ECAS business over from BTR. But you cant find air suspension parts for the P38 listed on the Trelleborg air suspension website. Dunlop have their own...

So does Dunlop still make the height sensors ? Probably not due to the age of the vehicle. If not, who does ?

I have a question - if our vehicles are now obsolete, do Dunlop still manufacture the level height sensors themselves or are they made under licence in China like a lot of parts ? i'm sure when i ordered new front window actuators and they were advertised as OEM, but when they arrived the bag...

new coil fitting kits will cost more than dunlop bags

They are tapered and have a stainless retaining clip at the top. Supposed to be superior to the dunlops. As to whether they last longer god knows but they have a 5 year guarantee versus 2 years for dunlops

yep. if you are loaded, get the arnott bags - i'm sticking with the original dunlops

I agree with Henry B. Poor maintenance or maybe the cost of new airbags 15 years ago. When i bought mine, it needed a new front prop, aircon condensor, cabin air filters, wiper blades, scuttle foam, digital amp as it was missing along with the cd changer, tyres, new front window regulators...

update - whatever it was doing last night it hasn't done it at all today ??

pump relay was removed at the time of fitting a new fusebox - haven't checked the relay timer. there shouldn't be any power going to the unit and its never happened before in 4 years of ownership. I took the lid off but there wasn't any vibration from the pump itself, but something was...

definitely something in the eas box