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I do mine halfway between the main services, which works out at about every 10k. If I was doing lots of short journeys I would shorten that to 6k.

The rod design and bolts were changed in 2002. Before that the rod was the same for LHD and RHD, with a bend in it and was solid. After 2002 the RHD rod is straight and only the LHD is bent. It is only LHD models that actually need the bend to clear the diff. It your vehicle is supposed to have...

The Boomslang looms are rubbish, however there are better quality options that will solve your current draw issue. I have one from a company called Landreizger in Holland. It was about £40 if I remember correctly, though that was pre-brexit. Fit and forget

Or more likely poorly maintained & set up heaters, or howling gales through badly adjusted door gaps. I daily drove my 200Tdi 90 for 12 years and in the hundreds of thousands of miles I did I never had a problem with being cold.

Not structural? That bit of the chassis with the holes in is the end of the rear A-frame crossmember. It sees quite big loads under acceleration and braking and is definitely structural! Not an easy job to fix, the rear body usually has to come off to do it unless the rot is only in the outside...

PM sent re some bits

Loads of people have removed the bulkhead on the Facebook groups, so I’d say that he’s talking nonsense.

Modern vehicles are just as upgradable as old ones, it’s just much more expensive and takes a very different skill set. Try these guys, they do lots of this sort of thing: https://lr-retrofits.co.uk/

Lemförder are good

There are many UJs sold as OEM that are poor quality - remember OEM just means it’s made by a company that at one time made original parts for any vehicle, it does not mean it is the same as a genuine part in a different box. It’s worth noting also that sadly even many genuine parts are of poor...

The lower set of M16 bolts in the rear face of the crossmember are the same. The three M10 bolts that go vertically into the underside face are not, and you will need a new angle piece. I bought a Td5 fixed towbar angle piece (LR042765) and slightly realigned the holes that take the second set...

There is no filler strip on the front screen. One of the slots closes up when fitted.

Sorry to see the damage. Personally I wouldn’t have involved the insurance company, by the time they write it off, pay you out and you buy it back (assuming you can) and then taking into account increased premiums and the reduced value of the vehicle, I reckon you’ll have been better off just...

There’s a slight noise when engaged, but it’s still quieter than the engine at high revs.

A Roamerdrive - is that not what you were asking about? A 1.2 transfer box is all well and good but I like the normal gearing for normal driving and towing.

I have one on my 90, it’s a great bit of kit. Makes cruising at 75mph as comfortable as 60mph used to be and as such takes a lot of stress out of motorway journeys. It won’t really improve economy, especially as you will tend to drive faster.

Gibsons Auto Services in Cumnock would be my suggestion if you want to get someone to do it - they do chassis swaps all the time.

I have had both types on mine and never really noticed any difference to be honest.

The D200 six-cylinder. Really impressive torque. Despite being the lowest powered in the range it’s really effortless, even with a heavy trailer. The D250 and D300 must be something else, but apparently the three straight six diesel engines are all the same and it’s just different maps so there...

I bought one - it’s a great vehicle. Only 3,000 miles so far but it’s not given me any grief. Exceptional on the road as you would expect, and it’s towing ability is top drawer. I’ve not had a chance to do much off road with it yet due to the lockdown but from what I have done (mainly forest...