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That's exactly what it was!! thanks. \the engine breather had the diaphragm missing and was sucking up the oil. sorted now.

It was a rotten core plug! new set if core plugs, jobs a goodun! The smoke was due to a faulty crankcase breather diaphragm making the inlet vacuum suck up the oil!!! now right as ninepence!!

Well It's come to a head now,was out in it Friday and the temp suddenly bent the needle round the hot end so I pulled over in a large cloud of steam.. Topped up the rad and as fast as I poured in it ****ed out the side of the block lust beneath the manifold. I think a core plug has popped...

so this crap replacement engine I just fitted doesn't leak oil or rumble, but smokes on start up, and does a HUGE cloud of white/blue smoke when revved after ticking over for a minute. I reckon a recon cylinder head might be on the cards. any thoughts..?

is it ok to remove the engine breather from the manifold altogether? the ond engine had it blanked off.

I will do. may send the head in for recon yet ad it smokes on startup and pulling away after waiting at junctions. At least I reckon stem seals. The guy did give me a partial refund so that was ok. Always worth paying paypal for this ebay mallarky as you can get refund more easily.

Yeah, exactly that! the starter motor was gash, all nuts on manifold loose oil pipe loose, dizzy shagged...I reckon just spannered up out of bits from the shed. "Hillary. Fetch me the shotgun."

I'm in the process of doing just that, but I'm more bothered about the week or so of working on it in the road outside my house every night and days off wasted time. I can't be bothered to hoik it out and fit another one now...

Just fitted my "rebuilt engine" I got off ebay and I'm not impressed to say the least! Clouds of blue smoke on startup, after any overrun and when blipping the throttle! if anything it's worse than the one I took out. Beware of these bastards...Live and learn don't you!!

Doing the coolant for my replacement 4 pot series 3 engine and I was going to use the gallon of red antifreeze that I have handy but it says not suitable for classic cars....not that Yolande is a classic, but is it old enough for red A/F to cause a problem??

just pulled the shagged engine out of my series 3, and I see the bellhousing is covered in black powdery fluff which turns to smelly black oil when touched. the clutch was fine and looks dry I don't think the crank seal has let go, so I wonder if there's a bad seal on the gearbox input shaft...

I have managed to secure the purchase of a rebuilt 2 1/4 petrol from 'an internet auction site' and hope to drop it in in the road outside my terrace house. Neighbours are used to that sort of thing, what are we talking time wise? have to take the floor and seat box out don't you? and I wondered...

That's exactly what it was! thanks ever such a lot! Now fixed!!

rattle still there but has not got any worse. Fitted a new pair of mirrors today tho' and I now know where all my engine oil is going, it took almost a gallon today for about 250 miles of use. Whilst flat out up a slip road I noticed a steady plume of blue black smoke from the tailpipe that HMS...

All done and the wheel looks great! the bonnet is a little heavier but then I AM IMMENSELY STRONG... .

OK It's shagged. I was thinking of an upgrade here, what if you could fit a dash mounted cable handbrake like on a Merc vito ? then you ain't got that bloody lever pressing your leg all the time. I might make something up unless someone else has been on this 'journey' and can enlighten me as to...

Thanks lads, i'll have a look...soon as I've changed the master cylinder-the service brakes have gone tits as well! Coincidence or what!!

how's this...sitting at the lights with the handbrake on the other day and as usual the handbrake lever leaning on the side of my leg. I've leaned my leg against it and 'twang!' THE BRAKE'S COME OFF! now it won't stay on, I can feel the ratchet but it just flops back down. Have I broken it? :(

not on just the over run now, steady rattle all the time, tried doing the tappets ( it's never that is it?) and now suspect the cam chain. is this possible to change with the engine in?

I've just got some of that closed cell foam,about 10mm thick and i'm going to cover the tunnel footwells and bulkhead with it. If it doesn't work-what the hell,looks better than the shabby paintwork and only cost £26 a roll. Might go camping first an lie on it just to get extra VFM.