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I think you need to start from the basics was the oil pump somehow managing to pull up air up via the seal between the pump and the block? Is the pressure relief valve working? Were the main bearing shells different between top and bottom shelles ie drillings? Is there some sort of restrictor...

What make was the oil pump?

I have known many mechanics over the years, and the vast majority ran heaps as personal transport, and I know for a fact a few of them had money, the rest earnt decent money but would not spend it on cars.

Google td5 plastic cylinder head dowels.

Small ones can be buggers.

Have you tried removing and repositioning the wiper arms?

Quite a bit of work to get at the chain and tensioner, but the parts are not dear at all. If the rattle is only there on a cold start no need to panic yet, if it is there all the time then it needs looking at asap. Of course it will mean new cambelts again.

They go on cold and dry, done loads over the years on truck air brake systems. Seen plenty of people who heat them, always ended in failure, when I started out that is also what I did.

Corteco seals are decent. Garter spring side of the crank seal goes to the oil, timing cover seal garter spring goes to the outside air.

You want nylon air brake pipe, same as used on trucks etc. Always measured by the od, different wall thicknesses will give you the id that you need. The clear braided pipe is just plain crap, okay to get you out of a jam, but goes hard and leaks after a while.

The cheap timing kits off ebay have all you will need, puller etc, but you will need some long m5 bolts to pull off the crankshaft cambelt drive gear, cannot tell you exact length as my tools are 20 miles away.

Plus with winter here your fbh will not work.

Do not run it out of fuel. Simply brim it, zero your trip and refuel every 200 miles.

Ask Ashcroft, I would hazard a guess their 3.5 is the same as LRs 3.54.

Speeedi sleeve on the leaking tfer box output flange and another new seal.

When I was the boy one of the blokes used to bring in his mates very very small bottles (thermos flask size) the instructions were connect them to the big bottle and turn the tap on, count to ten and that was it, I saw him do it several times.

I think last time I changed mine (2yrs ago ish) it was 80 quid?

Some wire cable, gaffa tape, choccy blocks, and assorted jub clips.

SGS or Hobbyweld. We use SGS at work, from a local motor factor, mig gas, oxy and acetylene. I have hobbyweld at home, I have the 20 litre bottle (middle one in the pic) bloody heavy to hump around, seems to last for ages, I think first bottle did around 7 or 8 5kg reels of 1.0mm wire.

That is almost certainly black chassis wax applied with a compressor, actually looks like a neat job. You need to have a tap along the lower edge of the chassis between the axles, as said it has had a rear x member at some point as you can see the join under the arb mounting bracket, again you...