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When the lift pump went on my 200tdi, it would take about 15-20secs of cranking before it would start, it ran fine when it did start. As fine as I am aware, the engine should run fine with just the injection pump, providing it is in good nick and set up correctly. Just to add, my duff lift pump...

I might be wrong, but I seem to recall the extra elbow room (and presumably the seat change?) came in when Nineties/OneTens/130 became the Defender in 1990.

Looks like he’s on 7.5” rims, the calculator reckons 235/85 should be on 6”-7”.

Cheers for the info chap! I’m going to get galvanised frames as a minimum requirement, I still may go down the fully galvanised frame and skin route, as the ally corrosion may be to far gone to stop, at least for one of my doors. Good to know that the skin removal is very much doable!

Did the skin come off and go back on easy enough? I need to get new rear passenger doors, but I want to keep the skins as the decals are no longer available (and it’ll be cheaper!).

Builders, for some reason. See loads of brickies with joggers and white trainers on, seems to be a thing for them.

If it’s not rainwater that has pooled-up somewhere, then it must be coolant or screen wash, it won’t be condensation. Get a UV dye and torch kit, add to the coolant and check for leaks, then the screen wash and check for leaks. Having the UV dye in the coolant isn’t a bad thing anyway, I always...

@ProjectX , my ‘87 One Ten is LEZ exempt, not ULEZ though. Also classed as a Private/Light Goods vehicle, but the body type on mine is stated as “Estate” or “Station Wagon”, can’t remember which. Yours is “Light 4x4 Utility”, which I believe is the important difference. If the vehicle has never...

I have both a drop-style tow ball and a 2” hitch on my OneTen. To be honest I have only ever used the tow ball for towing, the 2” receiver gets used for a mobile workbench. I think the position of the receiver hitch may be higher than recommended for most trailers and I’m still not entirely...

Prop joint (uj?) and shock bush aren’t too much of a surprise, I wouldn’t have expected a brake line to corrode so soon though. In general though, it’s quite normal for a Defender to need this sort of attention almost annually, so don’t be too put off!

Yep, it’s made for coolant. I now like to have specific sealants for specific applications eg. for fuel, for oil and for coolant. The Loctite stuff always seems to work well.

I needed to replace the thermostat body on an old Golf not that long ago. A genuine body was about £300, more than the car was worth, so I opted for an aftermarket brand. Of the three I was sent, one at a time after sending the previous back, each one had a warped mating surface and consequently...

Just answered my question as I was typing.

Any recommendations for brands? I’m going to tell him to get GKN ujs and maybe a Hardy Spicer prop. The prop’s about £80 (with ujs attached), compared to about £60 for Bearmach/Britpart.

Cheers for that. Pretty much what I said to my mate, I was only going to reduce the price by £200 though, I was supplying tea and cake after all.

I’ve got me special 9/16 slim socket for the job, the prop will come with ujs attached, so I’ll just double check with the original. Forgot to say, they would have replaced the rear ujs too, bargain!

A friend of mine, who is even more mechanically inept than I, has asked if I can give him a hand changing the front prop after he was quoted £925 by a garage! Is there anything I need to be aware of with this repair, before I begin? I’ve done ujs on my OneTen before, can’t imagine it’s much...

Not necessarily, they were still available with the NA engine from new, quite why anyone would choose it over the 200tdi is a mystery! Maybe for continuity or familiarity?

I didn’t say you’d find the injector afterwards!

Same here! 1/2 to 1/4 goes down nice and steady, below that seems like it’s being jettisoned out the back!