Help with my bent rear door

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robbiemcvee

Active Member
Posts
116
Location
Cambridgeshire
Yesterday my son took my 90 for a drive round he paddock, he ended up reversing into a gate post. from what i see i can either replace the door - so if anyone has recommendations for where to buy - or i bash it out?
 

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As long as the spars okay as mentioned just warm up the panel and beat back. I suspect your lad didn't drive at full pelt from the image.
 
You did explain to you son…
You bend it,you mend it? This is a good way for them to learn spanners & hammers.

you can get replacement parts for the door frames. You just need to weld in
 
Looks like it's got a spare wheel pattern to the dent!
If the steel bars inside were ok the skin would probably knock out ok. I've had all three of mine off the frames. If the frame is a bit rotten then you could weld new bits of frame in. If it's very rotten then it's a new door. If you're landy is a keeper I'd invest in a galvanised one.
 
Looks like it's got a spare wheel pattern to the dent!
If the steel bars inside were ok the skin would probably knock out ok. I've had all three of mine off the frames. If the frame is a bit rotten then you could weld new bits of frame in. If it's very rotten then it's a new door. If you're landy is a keeper I'd invest in a galvanised one.
Did the skin come off and go back on easy enough? I need to get new rear passenger doors, but I want to keep the skins as the decals are no longer available (and it’ll be cheaper!).
 
Love the land rover repair book in shot . Time you have messed about might aswell get a new one some decent second hand ones about
 
Did the skin come off and go back on easy enough? I need to get new rear passenger doors, but I want to keep the skins as the decals are no longer available (and it’ll be cheaper!).
Yes, they did surprisingly!
I bought a set of pry bars like these LINKY and used the small one to pry the edge of the skin up. I took the skin just over the 90 degrees so it would lift off. I think galv doors were very much in their infancy, if available at all. What I should have done was got the frames galvanised. What I did instead was get them plastic coated. I then filled them with dinitrol. The skins just sat back on and the edges folded over no bother. I had them painted in a paint shop after that. That was seven years ago, but the frames are going already :rolleyes:

EDIT
@bluedog333
I've been looking through my rebuild pictures and it's reminded me that the skins on my new doors were also glued on. The skins came away no bother though (They were Britpart mind!)
This is the adhesive being scraped off the skin.
IMG_5279.JPG

Frame with industrial plastic coating.
IMG_5282.JPG

Full of dinitrol
IMG_5306.JPG

Skin back on
IMG_5311.JPG

I should have galvanised the frames :rolleyes:
 
Last edited:
Yes, they did surprisingly!
I bought a set of pry bars like these LINKY and used the small one to pry the edge of the skin up. I took the skin just over the 90 degrees so it would lift off. I think galv doors were very much in their infancy, if available at all. What I should have done was got the frames galvanised. What I did instead was get them plastic coated. I then filled them with dinitrol. The skins just sat back on and the edges folded over no bother. I had them painted in a paint shop after that. That was seven years ago, but the frames are going already :rolleyes:

EDIT
@bluedog333
I've been looking through my rebuild pictures and it's reminded me that the skins on my new doors were also glued on. The skins came away no bother though (They were Britpart mind!)
This is the adhesive being scraped off the skin.
View attachment 251243
Frame with industrial plastic coating.
View attachment 251244
Full of dinitrol
View attachment 251245
Skin back on
View attachment 251246
I should have galvanised the frames :rolleyes:
Cheers for the info chap! I’m going to get galvanised frames as a minimum requirement, I still may go down the fully galvanised frame and skin route, as the ally corrosion may be to far gone to stop, at least for one of my doors.
Good to know that the skin removal is very much doable!
 
Cheers for the info chap! I’m going to get galvanised frames as a minimum requirement, I still may go down the fully galvanised frame and skin route, as the ally corrosion may be to far gone to stop, at least for one of my doors.
Good to know that the skin removal is very much doable!
No bother mate. I should take mine off again and get the frames galvanised before they're too far gone. :( Good luck with yours :)
 
His name is ghound, in June when I posted the rear doors started from about 230 up to 300 if remember correctly !
 
Try a comapny that makes the doors and are located in Liverpool. Their name is SP panels or use www.sp-4x4.com. They do new doors in Ali or steel and galv frames too or for about £100 there are front door skins too.
 
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