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Those gear ratios, I'm sure, relate to the final drive ratio in the gearbox. The IRDs are the same. Look at the 2nd post in that thread. I think that inside those gearboxes, where a diff might go in a 2WD implementation, there is a final drive gearing bringing the output down to the speeds...

TBH, I extracted the IRD, bought a rebuild kit... and handed it over to a diff shop to do all the pulling and pushing of bearings. So, other than splitting the casing, I haven't experience of what's inside it. Are they different? Can't you just use the one off the TD4? I know mounting...

I've found that the front bolts are the same as the ones that fit to the brackets by the wishbone. However, I may have mixed and matched with bolts from the parts car so shorter ones have ended up on the front.... cos they are a PITA to get in and out, so the shorter they are the better! They...

Do you have a code reader to identify why they are on but not the ABS? May be related to a gearbox switch or summat that you'll have to replicate.

I think you will find they are different to the 5 door built before 2000, and the 3 door. Same as a 5 door built 2000+ though.

The lid on that trailer will be really heavy to lift with that tent on it.

Doesn't it need to move out when it engages or does the whole shaft move out?

TBH, those battery contacts are really tiny solders - you need a magnifying glass and a very steady hand to do it. I'd double check those solders, make sure they are good and not shorting anything. But @Alibro has the right 1st thing to try!

That camper has only just got back on the road and still isn't perfect. Was a great day in the office today... I'm not one who likes stopping much when I'm driving, like to get to where I'm going. But today I just had to stop and snap that pic. Unfortunately the crappy camera in my phone...

All good stuff.

Is that cos this thread is so full of useful technical help with rust buckets? @blue beasty can you move @Stanleysteamer to a care home this thread to AG?

Her kind of kindness we can do without.

I don't get the heat gun to close, just enough to soften it, worth having a go on a scrap 1, the seal material might cope well with a bit of heat.

Have you tried a heat gun? I use this at work for removing old stuck on seals, softens the adhesive. Might be worth trying it on 1 you don't want to keep first in case it damages the seal more than the adhesive!

You should send the mechanic the bill for all those parts and your time.

From Rave... Do you think your circled wire is C0577? Rave says C0577-1 goes to Glow Plugs from FL6. Its spec if NW,8.2D,640 so is something and white and is a thick 8,2mm core.

Fuse F10 takes a feed directly from the ignition switch. All the others take a feed from FL4 circled in red in the wiring diagram... Presumaby you had the ignition on or just recently turned off when you powered with a direct feed from the battery, as F33 & F34 would not otherwise have got...

They guy I bought mine off used it to put the bikes on the back to go mountain bike riding. He got to old to ride the bike. His car was a pristine Porsche 911, that he was very proud of as owner and enthusiast, her car a Boxter. He had the Freelander serviced at the same outfit that he sends...

Not exactly sure, but I think mines a GS spec, so hasn't got the bells and whistled I won't use. It's still got a much higher spec than my F1 and flys by comparison even though its only a TD4. Who ever bought it new though, splashed cash on really nice leather seats with arm rests. So basic...

From a another thread in the last few days, power comes from the F14 fuse on a purple wire. However, if F14 is caput, there will be other things not working that you would have noticed.