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Yes I think I’d replaced mine too. Didn’t think to put some plastic/rubber sheet in between as a barrier, the mud shields I got are real HD from YRM 10 years ago about £20 a side then. the angles were spot welded on originally I’ve popped on both sides still holding on

Refurbing my rear springs one side had two small ones broke on one side, so I trimmed down one of the other sides to match , worked well but noticed when tub full of manure it hit bump stops when going over lumpy ground but not fully loaded was fine, maybe a noticeable drop in ride height when...

Have you tried separating spring leafs , derusting , lubricating them, then while apart measuring the leaves to compare with spec. There is also opportunity to remove a spring leaf if above makes no difference

Have a look for the series 3 workshop manual http://smithies.co.nz/land_rover/ Could be a pipe blockage too in tank so remove pipe from top of tank to see if end gauze is blocked If lever does not work properly and pump the fuel through you may need to rotate engine 1/2 a turn

Don’t worry we’re all lovely here 😇, is it the petrol or diesel original engine When did it last run, have you done anything recent to it What checks have you done so far

There should be a L shaped bracket on underside of wing that mudguard bolts to. I used some rubber door stoppers in between mud guard and footwell to make a gap so the crud doesn’t get stuck there

Well done getting to the bottom of it, do you think bent pushrod there before or occurred during running on

You might have a wait , he’s not been seen for 11 years

if your belt snapped originally then the gear wheels would have moved out of sync you see the EP exhaust peak is 109 deg before top dead centre so with belt off and all pistons in mid point in cylinder you should be able to set pump and cam at exhaust peak measured with dti then get crank at...

dats lot of gears:eek:

maybe E numbers specific to spanish landrovers Espania? ;)

very useful although not used as much as flossie, i bought this cheap off ebay just for this job, the idea is to get corrcect TDC so set to zero just before tdc, turn crank then reading will change and then go back to zero, mark off on flywheel or pully at each zero and then in the middle is...

on my 84 series its same as below same as santanas

you dont use the flywheel locking key on your engine ,this might be your problem , have you the locking tool for pump step 13 above for early engines

this ios on my 84 2286 with timing chain ,but i used dti to find TDC on piston 1 with head off , my pointer was missing so made a new one to check tdc through the flywheel housing cover then ypu can also use the dti to find max opening on no1 exhaust cam to check marks

also gives to change to check TDC on piston top with DTI and make additional markings if reqd

i thought it might have mentioned the 12J prefix , E looks odd and not in this list. but if it is the 12J it confirms its an early engine and how to time it is explained in the manual here. have you the little window to spot EP on the flywheel outer ring, also where is the screwed hole for lock...

TDC not the same as EP exhaust No 1 at max opening Is your engine number on left front of engine or on right above rear side plate near lift pump, this will let you know whether you have an early or late 2.5 and how to time it

Sounds like you have got the cam/crank belt fitted incorrectly and as you say the valves hitting one of the pistons , so ensure the no 1 piston on compression stroke with both valves closed it’s possible you’re a turn out Have you a copy if correct engine manual

Have you read this one https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/12j-exhaust-peak-timing.387655/