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Check out what's on offer at Machine Mart. With any of these tool chests, try pushing down in the drawers as you move them in and out. Most of them are ok with no weight in them but the cheaper ones bind when loaded. The money is in the runners.

I meant for gas welding, not electric... I used to be able to weld anything when I could see! A while ago a friend showed me an air filter housing for a BMW 3.0CSI that I modified for him about 30 years ago when I was welding most days. I had gas brazed it. No way I could do that quality now.

I have been meaning to get an auto darkening helmet for years and this sounds like the justification I need. Hadn't spotted how much cheaper they are now. When I last looked they were about £100. I'm surprised there doesn't seem to be a neater solution for gas welding. There must be loads of...

I have one of those and it's good for the smaller Rivnuts. You probably need the one with longer handles for 6mm stainless. Same make, different model.

There is something that can be used to mould new insulation around cables. Check out Sugru. A bit like a rubberised putty that sets with a reasonable amount of flexibility. Cutting, soldering and heatshrink will give a better repair longterm, but Sugru should do a decent job for a while. I...

Help required for occasional welder with failing eyesight. My welding used to be pretty reasonable but is pretty hopeless now as I can't see what I'm doing. Plenty of magnifying lenses available for welding helmets for Mig etc, but I'm struggling to find anything for gas. Either 50mm lenses...

That saves me using an impossible to remove modern mastic and storing up trouble for later. Thank you.

Just had the rear widow on my Defender broken. It's the one that's held in with mastic. Can anyone offer any advice for replacement? Which mastic to use? Thank you.

The shocks on my year 2000 TD5 defender are on their way out and I'm looking at Konis as a replacement. It's ex military and has uprated suspension with twin coil springs on the rear. I would be grateful for any help as to which model to use - Raid, Heavy Track etc. Not sure what else I need...

Would you consider changing the horn to one with Lucas connectors? Plenty on Fleabay under a tenner.

I think you would notice the noise if it were the exhaust manifold gasket! If you are changing the heater matrix it's worth considering an uprated item. I seem to remember a decent Youtube video about it.

It would help to have a picture. vehicle-wiring-products.eu has a good range of connectors and tools.

The 400mA drain you measured would probably be enough to cause your trouble, particularly if the battery is getting tired.

Use the ammeter in line with the battery itself. Assume battery about 80Ah. It shouldn't drain if left for a month = 720 hours 80/720 = 110mA Anything above 0.1A = 100mA is too much.

Do you have an ammeter? If the battery is going flat in 2 days you have something drawing about 1 Amp or 12 Watts. Disconnect positive battery cable and connect through ammeter. See what current is flowing. You can then pull fuses one by one to see if you can stop it.

Best thing I have found to keep aerials moving is a graphite spray - available on fleabay. Any oil or grease will attract dirt and drag it in. The graphite works as a dry lubricant.

I'm with payydg. Bought an X defend that is bolted to the floor with security bolts. Very happy with it. I cut the original mat and stuck it to the plate. I don't notice it's there when driving. No key needed to lock. Quick unlock and fold down. Quarter turn catch to keep it in place...

The speedo stores the total mileage, not the vehicle brain. There seem to be a few people who have made pulse generators to increase new speedos to the correct mileage. Not sure how easy it is to get a second hand speedo reset to a lower mileage.

Good call, Shippers. Thank you.

Looking at the speedo I think that must be the only way. Almost impossible to do this without making a mess. I should have investigated further before I decided to go with the change of dial.