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Mine usually stays on N but I noticed it dropping back today due probably to the strong winds

None of you pictures have worked - use the proper forum pictures thing. You should be able to rebuild it. The bearing ends are available, did you mean the steering column itself is pitted? The bearing caps do drop out. You may need to get a set of shims possibly to get it working right...

I've had no problems with the Lucas boxed metal bowled lights - they also came with Indian newspaper packing. I had plastic ones before...two lots fell in bits in as many years, they had very crappy adjuster pegs Yes they are from India, I believe all the Lucas stuff (tooling etc) was shipped...

Could be an overheating problem, when you stop then restart the engine spreads its heat to the fuel pump, dissy and coil which gets blown away by the breeze when you're running. I ended up changing to an electric fuel pump. First, can you confirm it is a petrol. Next try going for a run...

If you're going to have fuses in the circuit then you really should split left and right sides into separate circuits. Land Rover sensibly didn't fuse the head lamp circuit. Fuses tend to blow randomly (or in landrover's crappy holder fall out). If you've ever been tooling down a windy tree...

It's not been cold recently but don't leave it filled with watered down (or no) anti-freeze, a good frost and you'll have a knackered radiator too. The head-gasket on series is fairly simple - make sure you get a decent quality composite one and borrow a known good torque wrench

Probably also worth checking the grease on the selectors and the top cover on the box (including all the ball bearings and springs) it might just be dried up old grease that softens after its warmed up a bit.

If it's the bits I'm thinking of YRM metal solutions do some repair sections

This started after pouring oil in...I'd advise #1 test to be empty the oil and measure how much. If plugs are black then oil is getting in the cylinders which could be knackered rings or too much oil. As this happened after re filling surely the sensible and cheap thing would be to check that...

The oil light should be green shouldn't it? Are you sure you've not just overfilled it with oil - that can be nearly as bad as underfilling it

Two spots of tippex on the tyres then roll back two turns measure at back then at front. The front should be 1-3mm narrower than the back. ALWAYS measure after pushing forwards and do a recheck. Don't rely on your sight the wheels will look on the **** unless you look at them from a very long...

No me neither, but I really didn't follow what the OP was getting at...the oil loss may just be the usual oil loss... reading it again though I think he means the nuts holding the diff to chassis are finger tight. We won't know until he takes it to pieces and gets some photos up here though.

I have to say I'm puzzled by the description of diff bolts - now if they are the U bolts I understand. Probably the person in the garage didn't tighten them properly - you do use a torque wrench on u-bolts don't you?! It's easy to get them wrong - especially if they are not properly on the...

If you download the manuals there is a section in there somewhere about measuring the chassis for errors and the tolerances are quite large! The main things I'd be worried about are the trueness of the axles (centre to centre back to front) so you're not crabbing too much. A bit of lean is...

Thanks Murtle, all good pointers - I can't be 100% certain but I'm fairly sure I left the slave cylinder fitted the whole time. I'll check for the spacer and measure the pedal height at the weekend. I'm sure I put the clutch plate in the right way round it was clearly marked - I remember being...

That makes sense thinking about it. I'll check whether the master pushrod has some play...I really don't want to have to rip the floor up again, lots of sealer to keep me feet dry would be wasted!

As part of a rebuild I fitted a new clutch. After reassembly things seem to be going ok except: - The bite point for the clutch is quite near the top of the pedal travel - I would have expected it to be lower down on a new clutch. The release bearing is a HD (Britpart I think) part and has the...

I went through the same pain several years ago I think this was the final working one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-BRAKE-LIGHT-SWITCH-for-SERVO-BRAKES-575166-LUCAS-/330498644508?hash=item4cf3411a1c:m:mGo1piHPuHZNUsYG5o8vzqA Expensive but at least it works. If fitting a relay I'd...

It sounds to me like it could be over-fuelling or your fuel pump is getting hot causing vapour lock First I'd check that the choke is fully disengaging and that there are no air or fuel blockages. Then I'd adjust the carb mixture when the engine is FULLY hot, not just warm but hot. Get it up to...