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Sorted. Insulated the white wire, joined the brown to the brown/yellow, battery lamp works for the first time since I bought it and 14.7v is the charge at the battery :) Cheers

The white and brown wires are the W and D terminal feeds just looped to one another. They don't actually feed anything. As its a 300Tdi from a Disco I suspect the dual brown wire feed is from the original 19J engine, and the single thick wire from the Disco loom. The white and brown wires are...

Ok. I'll take a punt on the truncated brown/yellow wire being the exciter wire, do the W and D connections need bridging? I thought the D terminal on the alternator was for a rev counter (which the 90 doesn't have), so is there any need for it?

Whilst fitting a new alternator to the 90 I dug up this ****-poor excuse of a wiring bundle: I'm having charging issues - old alternator gave up ghost, new one is only chucking 11.87v into the battery. I'm guessing the ####ed up wiring is causing issues, the main charge wire is nice heavy...

Anyone got a 300Tdi alternator spare in Cornwall? Went out to my 90 this morning and it wouldn't start. As the wipers, lights and heater have been getting weaker and weaker over the last week or so, I guess the alternator is shot. Tried a Land Rover breaker in St Awful but apparently they...

Still available, will be going on ebay at the end of the week if no bugger takes em.

Eggsackerly this. Also, If the body you have is sound, strip it bare and pressure wash it, then swap in a good loom and interior from another Disco. An MoT-failed rusty Disco will be miles cheaper than a good MoT'd example too, with any luck selling the spares you don't use (or keep in...

Yes, you can use the repair sections, though you'll still need to lift the windscreen and roof, take the doors off and some of the dashboard. You really need to check first though if there is any other rot on the bulkhead (door posts, footwells, everywhere!) - if the rot is properly established...

If your bulkhead has holes in it, it'll almost certainly fail the MoT. You could Kurust (or similar chemical treatments) the rot and just give it a quick brush over with metal paint to slow it down if there aren't any holes. Door corrosion is not so easy to solve, though I'd be tempted as a...

I had similar problems with mine (tub cappings rotting, doors fooked, etc). Bulkhead on mine has already been sorted though. I fitted a good quality pair of secondhand doors and a set of galvanised tub cappings (if you're going to go to the hassle of fitting new cappings, make sure the...

As others have said, depends on many variables. Paint colour - standard flat Land Rover blue is going to be much cheaper than Tangiers Orange (which needs a lot of work to get right). Prep work - how far do you want to go? Just stripping all the easily removable stuff and masking the rest, or...

All of my cars have a cheap compact sleeping bag stowed in the boot - I got them free as a bundle pack with a big tent a few years ago but they'd be a few quid each to buy normally. Don't usually put much more than extra car fluids in the boot for local journeys, but long distance I do put a...

Be glad you have the Vario and not Optare! Electronic issues abound with them and they make Plaxton look well built! I do have a lot of respect for the Vario chassis - it's a solid, relatively uncomplicated bit of kit that will pretty much go on forever. Bodies of course are a different matter...

Sadly I agree. It's also why I don't list the security devices that are fitted to my 90 in my build fred. Back on topic, all I can say is fuuuuuck! You did do the lottery for tonight didn't you Paul?

Out of curiousity what's your operation called? At one point we were running over 60 Varios with Plaxton Beaver bodies - slowly they are being replaced but given the abuse they've been through (many have covered well over 1,000,000kms) they're doing ok. Usual problems that we see are: bulkheads...

#### me what a ball-ache that is. We've got a couple of small-handed types at work who can do it in situ, but for me its a 15min job (or 25mins if some ####er has bodged it previously) taking the sodding unit off. Usually do all three bulbs at once if I'm doing driver side. Had any cracking...

Stornoway or Keswick are both relatively easy to do (according to my mate who sprayed the 90 ), but Tangiers Orange needs a lot more work (white undercoat, and ideally a white colour layer to really make the orange bold). Mine was sprayed wet-on-wet, which means prep, tack, then undercoat, wait...

No problem, have to admit it came down to a choice of all-over Keswick Green, Tangiers Orange (with a Stornoway Grey roof), or all-over Stornoway Grey. Went for the subtle choice in the end :)

No, it's Stornoway Grey. Looks a bit odd in the pics, will sort some proper daylight pics over the next few days.

On our 814D's it usually illuminates when overfilled. Sounds to me like an electrical issue, possibly sensor or wiring.