brian47
Well-Known Member
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- 8,867
Many Landy owners will be looking forward to winter and the possibility of fun in the snow with relish. Most of them will know exactly what theyre doing and how to handle adverse weather conditions, and will have suitably prepared the Landy ready for the fun.
But what of the "daily drive", the vehicle you most rely on to get to work or the shops and the one which can often be neglected?
There are many websites offering advice on what needs to be done to get ready for winter, some advice being more outlandish than others, from change to fully studded ice tyres to keep a couple of chocolate biscuits in the car.
No doubt other members will have their own ideas to add to this thread, but here are a few of my own which Ive developed for myself over the years. I might even be accused of trying to teach my granny to suck eggs, for which I apologise but if just one member finds this useful then Ill be happy.
Windscreen de-icer
A very useful item to keep in the car, but is it really the best place? I keep a can of the stuff under the sink in the kitchen too; its just as useful for de-icing the rubber seal around the door so that you can get into the car to get your de-icer as it is for spraying on the windows.
But if you dont want to face squirting the stuff around the door then a thin smear of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on the rubber seals will help to keep them ice free and prevent them from sticking the door closed.
The lock in the door can also get wet during autumn and the water inside it can then freeze, effectively locking you out. You could try to heat up your key with a cigarette lighter, or use a proprietary barrel lock heater device but a quick squirt of WD40 or better still some proper lock lubricant into the lock before things start to freeze will drive out the water and lubricate the parts; no water equals no ice. There have been reports of WD40 causing damage to some types of locks so be aware before its used for this purpose.
Electrics
Winter is hard going on the electrics in a car, the lights are on for longer, the wipers seem to be working flat out all the time, the engine seems to be more sluggish to start in the cold.
Get your battery checked at your local garage, a drop test takes seconds to carry out and wont cost the earth. If youre a regular customer then theres just a slight chance that you wont be charged for the test. Lead acid batteries dont really like working too well in very low temperatures.
The fanbelt or "auxiliary drive belt" needs to be checked for condition and correct tension to make sure that the alternator charges the battery properly. How many of us have heard that neighbours car screeching as they pull away just because the fanbelt is slipping on the alternator pulley?
Obviously all the lights, particularly the statutory ones should be checked for correct function, including your hazard flashers. Make sure that the lights are kept clean, especially when the roads have been treated with salt-grit. High power bulbs such as those in the headlights can become grey or brown with age so reducing their effectiveness so it might be worth checking and replacing them if necessary.
The electrical side of the heater system can be checked too making sure that the different fan speed settings work and that warm air can be blown up onto the windscreen to help demist and defrost it. Electric screen heaters are OK, but they can fail and the warm air blown up from the heater will keep the screen clear.
Windscreen wiper blades should be inspected to make sure that they are fully functional and show no signs of wear. Motoring organisations recommend that wiper blades be replaced at intervals anything between six months and a year; theyre cheap enough.
On the subject of windscreens and their helpful tools, check that the washer jets are clear and properly aimed at the windscreen. The owners handbook will often show the recommended spray pattern. How many of us have had our windscreens washed by the car in front?
Of course your windscreen washers are about as much good as a chocolate fireguard if theyve frozen up so make sure that youre using the correct mix of water to screenwash additive to prevent freezing; itll help to remove road grease and grime more effectively than water and washing up liquid too. Keep the reservoir topped up at all times.
While were thinking about getting the mix of liquids right, check that the amount of anti-freeze in the radiator will protect the system down to below the expected winter temperature where you live; cars in say Brighton might need protection down to -5 celsius while if youre in the Highlands of Scotland where its at least a whole overcoat colder you might need protection down to -15 degrees or even lower. Your local garage should be able to carry out the test for you too, but an anti-freeze hydrometer is quite cheap to buy and usually very easy to use.
Wheels, tyres and brakes
Many owners these days see the merit in keeping a set of winter tyres in the garage; winter tyres are made from a different compound than ordinary tyres allowing them to behave properly at lower temperatures, so now is the time to check those tyres ready for fitting a bit later on in the year. If theyre kept on additional rims then make the usual checks for pressures, condition; cuts and sidewall damage and of course tread depth.
If youre running on normal road tyres all year round then with care they will see you through the winter, but make sure that you have plenty of tread depth; the legal minimum tread depth is 1.6 millimetres, but many motoring organisations recommend a minimum tread depth of at least 3 mm for winter driving. Keep the pressures at the vehicle manufacturers recommendation so that the tread pattern is kept open to aid traction.
Tyre pressures can reduce by a small amount in colder conditions and low pressures can allow the tread to close up where the tyre meets the road.
Brake pads should be checked for condition and replaced when they start to wear out. Worn brake pads can cause the brakes to snatch which in winter conditions can very easily lead to a skid with the possible catastrophic results. Of course the levels of hydraulic fluids in both the brake system and the power steering should be checked and topped up as necessary.
So, what should you keep in the car during winter?
Once again there are numerous internet websites with all kinds of useful (and otherwise) advice, and quite frankly its entirely up to you.
Apart from the vehicle jack and wheel brace, the kit of useful tools and bits like a replacement fanbelt, I would say that a charger for your mobile phone; one that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket is a must, as is a blanket, just in case you do get stuck. It helps if you can keep warm. In the warmer months you can always use it for packing in the boot.
A plastic ice scraper is another must; get one with a glove incorporated so that your fingers will still work properly after youve cleared the windows. Some people will advise a folding shovel and all manner of other "get you out of trouble" aids such as anti-wheel spin mats to go under the wheels, snow chains, wheel socks and so on, but only you will know if those items are cost effective but maybe you should consider carrying a towing strop; that kind farmer who turns up with his tractor to help you out might not have a towrope with him.
And you should of course carry a plentiful supply of cake, in the worst case for you to eat but mainly as standard currency to pay for any assistance rendered by LZIR.
But what of the "daily drive", the vehicle you most rely on to get to work or the shops and the one which can often be neglected?
There are many websites offering advice on what needs to be done to get ready for winter, some advice being more outlandish than others, from change to fully studded ice tyres to keep a couple of chocolate biscuits in the car.
No doubt other members will have their own ideas to add to this thread, but here are a few of my own which Ive developed for myself over the years. I might even be accused of trying to teach my granny to suck eggs, for which I apologise but if just one member finds this useful then Ill be happy.
Windscreen de-icer
A very useful item to keep in the car, but is it really the best place? I keep a can of the stuff under the sink in the kitchen too; its just as useful for de-icing the rubber seal around the door so that you can get into the car to get your de-icer as it is for spraying on the windows.
But if you dont want to face squirting the stuff around the door then a thin smear of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on the rubber seals will help to keep them ice free and prevent them from sticking the door closed.
The lock in the door can also get wet during autumn and the water inside it can then freeze, effectively locking you out. You could try to heat up your key with a cigarette lighter, or use a proprietary barrel lock heater device but a quick squirt of WD40 or better still some proper lock lubricant into the lock before things start to freeze will drive out the water and lubricate the parts; no water equals no ice. There have been reports of WD40 causing damage to some types of locks so be aware before its used for this purpose.
Electrics
Winter is hard going on the electrics in a car, the lights are on for longer, the wipers seem to be working flat out all the time, the engine seems to be more sluggish to start in the cold.
Get your battery checked at your local garage, a drop test takes seconds to carry out and wont cost the earth. If youre a regular customer then theres just a slight chance that you wont be charged for the test. Lead acid batteries dont really like working too well in very low temperatures.
The fanbelt or "auxiliary drive belt" needs to be checked for condition and correct tension to make sure that the alternator charges the battery properly. How many of us have heard that neighbours car screeching as they pull away just because the fanbelt is slipping on the alternator pulley?
Obviously all the lights, particularly the statutory ones should be checked for correct function, including your hazard flashers. Make sure that the lights are kept clean, especially when the roads have been treated with salt-grit. High power bulbs such as those in the headlights can become grey or brown with age so reducing their effectiveness so it might be worth checking and replacing them if necessary.
The electrical side of the heater system can be checked too making sure that the different fan speed settings work and that warm air can be blown up onto the windscreen to help demist and defrost it. Electric screen heaters are OK, but they can fail and the warm air blown up from the heater will keep the screen clear.
Windscreen wiper blades should be inspected to make sure that they are fully functional and show no signs of wear. Motoring organisations recommend that wiper blades be replaced at intervals anything between six months and a year; theyre cheap enough.
On the subject of windscreens and their helpful tools, check that the washer jets are clear and properly aimed at the windscreen. The owners handbook will often show the recommended spray pattern. How many of us have had our windscreens washed by the car in front?
Of course your windscreen washers are about as much good as a chocolate fireguard if theyve frozen up so make sure that youre using the correct mix of water to screenwash additive to prevent freezing; itll help to remove road grease and grime more effectively than water and washing up liquid too. Keep the reservoir topped up at all times.
While were thinking about getting the mix of liquids right, check that the amount of anti-freeze in the radiator will protect the system down to below the expected winter temperature where you live; cars in say Brighton might need protection down to -5 celsius while if youre in the Highlands of Scotland where its at least a whole overcoat colder you might need protection down to -15 degrees or even lower. Your local garage should be able to carry out the test for you too, but an anti-freeze hydrometer is quite cheap to buy and usually very easy to use.
Wheels, tyres and brakes
Many owners these days see the merit in keeping a set of winter tyres in the garage; winter tyres are made from a different compound than ordinary tyres allowing them to behave properly at lower temperatures, so now is the time to check those tyres ready for fitting a bit later on in the year. If theyre kept on additional rims then make the usual checks for pressures, condition; cuts and sidewall damage and of course tread depth.
If youre running on normal road tyres all year round then with care they will see you through the winter, but make sure that you have plenty of tread depth; the legal minimum tread depth is 1.6 millimetres, but many motoring organisations recommend a minimum tread depth of at least 3 mm for winter driving. Keep the pressures at the vehicle manufacturers recommendation so that the tread pattern is kept open to aid traction.
Tyre pressures can reduce by a small amount in colder conditions and low pressures can allow the tread to close up where the tyre meets the road.
Brake pads should be checked for condition and replaced when they start to wear out. Worn brake pads can cause the brakes to snatch which in winter conditions can very easily lead to a skid with the possible catastrophic results. Of course the levels of hydraulic fluids in both the brake system and the power steering should be checked and topped up as necessary.
So, what should you keep in the car during winter?
Once again there are numerous internet websites with all kinds of useful (and otherwise) advice, and quite frankly its entirely up to you.
Apart from the vehicle jack and wheel brace, the kit of useful tools and bits like a replacement fanbelt, I would say that a charger for your mobile phone; one that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket is a must, as is a blanket, just in case you do get stuck. It helps if you can keep warm. In the warmer months you can always use it for packing in the boot.
A plastic ice scraper is another must; get one with a glove incorporated so that your fingers will still work properly after youve cleared the windows. Some people will advise a folding shovel and all manner of other "get you out of trouble" aids such as anti-wheel spin mats to go under the wheels, snow chains, wheel socks and so on, but only you will know if those items are cost effective but maybe you should consider carrying a towing strop; that kind farmer who turns up with his tractor to help you out might not have a towrope with him.
And you should of course carry a plentiful supply of cake, in the worst case for you to eat but mainly as standard currency to pay for any assistance rendered by LZIR.
