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Finished prepping the tub, seat box and couple of other bits and gave them an etch prime. Then a high build primer then I gave them a first coat tonight with a cheap sprayer, basically i was going to brush/roller the coach ennmel on but instead I gave the sprayer a go and it turned out pretty...

Problem solved, when I took drums back off I could see where the drums had rubbed on the shoes, so I took a file to them and everything spinning freely now. Thanks for your help.

The cylinders aren't yet connected as I'm replacing the brake lines, I manually pushed the empty cylinders closed before fitting the shoes, so when the adjusters are fully closed up ie, minimum adjustment, the wheels have enough resitance to require two hands to turn the wheel. Do you think...

Cheers Steve. I just kept the original adjusters, do you recon that could make the difference? I did tap the drum before tightening. It's not overly tight. Just can hear when spinning the wheel, it takes a good bit of force to turn wheel and you can hear the rubbing/grinding.

So I got my front brakes stripped down today an cleaned the drums up and painted them along with the backing plates. When I fitted the new shoes and springs as per exiting were everything seems to work great when I doing the hub, however once the drum is back on with the two retaining screws...

These ones I salvaged had previously been gavanaised, I preferred the look of the galv against the satin black rear crossmember. Glad you think they look pretty authentic, looking forward to seeing the rest of the cappings done, Cheers.

Cheers, it was a bit of a "make it up as you go" sort of thing. I rubbed them back with the wire wheel then have them 3 coats of etch primer grey colour, then I sprayed them with screwfix own make of cold galvanising spray paint which I hoped would have looked more galv like, but instead it was...

A few more photos of completed jobs so far, I saved the old grab handles from old crossmember that had been painted silver and l wire brushed them on the grinder before painting to look galvanised. Going to do cappings the same way. Front axle painted ready to reassemble in next few days then...

Got my dumb iron welded in place and ground back ready to paint. Haven't taken a photo yet, I also started on drivers footwell today, got the old one stripped out and I managed just (weather was really bad) in between rain showers to get new one in place. Will complete installing it tomorrow...

Looking for your thoughts when it comes to partially" Rewiring as currently I had to remove the rear half of loom from inside to old corroded chassis rail and I've got it coiled up at drivers seat area, I planned on running new trailer type cable inside new rear half chassis rail and having a...

Sounds like a plan, il also cut a piece of timber with a v grove in it to seat the front spring bolt into and have it standing vertically to make sure I have the same height from the ground as well before and after.

Managed to get my front axle off today, the near side dumb iron has been replaced on the past and is in really good nick, the right side one is not as decent. It was the one area I knew would need attention. Ordered a replacement dumb iron tonight and should get it towards end of week. Plenty of...

Thanks guys, will look into it further, more things to think about and plan for!

Cheers Steve, no, just standard. I recon it's just the camera making it look extra shiney. Has anyone any suggestions for fitting windscreen washers, old hand pump one is shot and I want to change to electric like the series 3 ones, the bit I'm struggling with is whether to have washer jets from...

It is great when you can get time and it's not needed back on the road in a hurry. I just got this at the end of feb but having time off recently furring lock down has allowed me a couple of hours every day which has been a good head start. Got exhaust on this eve and check straps etc on today

Your projects looking great, I'm enjoying and not rushing as such , but looking forward to getting to the stage your at and seeing it coming together. My first ever project so I'm learning a lot as I go.

Haha! You'd think they would have at least put a rivit in each corner!! The foot wells also have some interesting patches, hence why I'm starting again with both sides.

I've got new brake lines ordered and going to change them back to the 4way splitter the same as you have there. May as well while overhauling the brakes as I'm finding the male fittings are absolutely solid and corroded, just twisting the copper line no matter how carefull I'm trying to be.

Quick update, I've now stripped wind screen out and taken doors off etc. Startedy bulkhead repairs too, new passenger footwell and door piller installed and everything has lined up perfectly. One last repair section at top end of door pillar to complete then I can do the drivers footwell...

Thanks for your advice, I recon it probably is a good idea to keep at least one of each. I even thought of putting a high level work lamp on a manual switch and using that as a reversing light also.