1968 series 2a restoration

Series 2a Mark · Apr 18, 2020

Thanks for your advice, I recon it probably is a good idea to keep at least one of each. I even thought of putting a high level work lamp on a manual switch and using that as a reversing light also.

Series 2a Mark · May 5, 2020

Quick update, I've now stripped wind screen out and taken doors off etc. Startedy bulkhead repairs too, new passenger footwell and door piller installed and everything has lined up perfectly. One last repair section at top end of door pillar to complete then I can do the drivers footwell replacement .
Next on the list is to overhaul the brakes all around then prep the bulkhead for painting down the line. Body work after that. I'm sure there will be a good few other jobs I between too but I'm Getting there.

Marmaduke · May 7, 2020

Rodeo Joe said:
Can you post a photo of one in situ..... Don't think I've ever come across one of those.

Ignore the dangling wires though

Marmaduke · May 7, 2020

That's an 'interesting' repair done by someone

Marmaduke · May 7, 2020

I bought one of these off Ebay while ago, craddocks use the same part numbers and also give you superseded ones so you can shop around easier

Series 2a Mark · May 7, 2020

Marmaduke said:
View attachment 208332
Ignore the dangling wires though

I've got new brake lines ordered and going to change them back to the 4way splitter the same as you have there. May as well while overhauling the brakes as I'm finding the male fittings are absolutely solid and corroded, just twisting the copper line no matter how carefull I'm trying to be.

Series 2a Mark · May 7, 2020

Marmaduke said:
View attachment 208333
That's an 'interesting' repair done by someone

Haha! You'd think they would have at least put a rivit in each corner!! The foot wells also have some interesting patches, hence why I'm starting again with both sides.

Marmaduke · May 7, 2020

Series 2a Mark said:
I've got new brake lines ordered and going to change them back to the 4way splitter the same as you have there. May as well while overhauling the brakes as I'm finding the male fittings are absolutely solid and corroded, just twisting the copper line no matter how carefull I'm trying to be.

Yeah, I've ended up replacing the entire brake system apart from the pedal and all new bearings. Got a bit carried away but it's finally coming together...

Series 2a Mark · May 7, 2020

Marmaduke said:
Yeah, I've ended up replacing the entire brake system apart from the pedal and all new bearings. Got a bit carried away but it's finally coming together...

Your projects looking great, I'm enjoying and not rushing as such , but looking forward to getting to the stage your at and seeing it coming together. My first ever project so I'm learning a lot as I go.

Marmaduke · May 7, 2020

I've had mine in bits for 5 years

. It's been off the road since '95 but I've bought a reliable every day car so I've now got time to work on it instead of fixing my every dayer

Series 2a Mark · May 7, 2020

It is great when you can get time and it's not needed back on the road in a hurry. I just got this at the end of feb but having time off recently furring lock down has allowed me a couple of hours every day which has been a good head start. Got exhaust on this eve and check straps etc on today

steve2286w · May 7, 2020

Nice did you get a stainless one

Series 2a Mark · May 7, 2020

Cheers Steve, no, just standard.
I recon it's just the camera making it look extra shiney. Has anyone any suggestions for fitting windscreen washers, old hand pump one is shot and I want to change to electric like the series 3 ones, the bit I'm struggling with is whether to have washer jets from down next to the wiper shafts or to have somthing coming from the above gutter? Cheers.

steve2286w · May 7, 2020

I would just copy the series 3 for the washer bits although the switch is expensive nice to push for water and turn for wipers
If younhave them on roof when the summer comes you might want to go topless makes it more awkward

Marmaduke · May 7, 2020

Mine's got two holes in the bonnet from where a distant owner fitted washer jets. I'll be honest I hadn't thought of refitting them

Series 2a Mark · May 7, 2020

Thanks guys, will look into it further, more things to think about and plan for!

Series 2a Mark · May 9, 2020

Managed to get my front axle off today, the near side dumb iron has been replaced on the past and is in really good nick, the right side one is not as decent. It was the one area I knew would need attention. Ordered a replacement dumb iron tonight and should get it towards end of week.
Plenty of other welding around that area to get pm with in the meantime .

Marmaduke · May 10, 2020

I used a length of threaded bar from one side to the other to make sure I welded them the correct distance apart

Series 2a Mark · May 10, 2020

Sounds like a plan, il also cut a piece of timber with a v grove in it to seat the front spring bolt into and have it standing vertically to make sure I have the same height from the ground as well before and after.

Series 2a Mark · May 10, 2020

Looking for your thoughts when it comes to partially" Rewiring as currently I had to remove the rear half of loom from inside to old corroded chassis rail and I've got it coiled up at drivers seat area, I planned on running new trailer type cable inside new rear half chassis rail and having a waterproof joint /junction box accessible in the passenger side tool tray under seat. Sound ok or any other ideas? I then have the front lighting cables that have more junctions and alterations than original wiring so plan on replacing this back a few ft into engine area so that it's just the loom around the engine itself that's original. I understand it's probably more sensible to replace full loom but I have no idea (even looking at wiring diagrams) and struggle to get my head round it and it all was working fine before I started work so don't see the point of doing the lot. Thanks,

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