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Thank you both, this is very helpful!

Ok, l will give that a whirl. Trouble is, the boot is packed with tools and tyres and all sorts of rubbish which I will now have to remove through the doors... Anyway, once I get it cleared away, that trim is removable with the hatch closed, or are we talking destructive dismantling? Cheers

Ok, that sounds plausible after sitting outside for so long. Is there any way to hack into the wiring to send juice right to the boot latch, or some other emergency opening procedure? Thanks!

I already have the improvised access hatch to the fuel pump from under the rear seat, but must access boot to get to it. What could cause the central locking to be activated by the boot button?

Hi all, The old girl has been neglected and forgotten, for which I deserve all the abuse you care to dish out, but she's now hopefully headed for a new and better home. However, I have two urgent issues: one, she's pi**ing petrol on the floor from a ruptured fuel line, second I can't enter the...

FWIW, our company has used various forms of thread-repair products over the years. In our experience, nothing comes close to the products sold under the FullTorque brand. They employ a patented claw-shaped thread which serves to strengthen the material around the repair, rather that weaken it...

If there isn't a dead-easy fix, like the fuse-trick you described (which I doubt), you can achieve this easily enough by finding the wire which feeds the socket from the fuse box. Snip the cable and install a standard 12V relay in line with this feed and then power the coil of the relay off...

You definitely need to refill the coolant. I have the same car, and my coolant level sits between the two lines when cold, slightly higher when warm. Start your car, take cap off tank and refill until the level sits steady close to the upper level line. The coolant should definitely not...

Although it will likely prime itself, I don't see why you wouldn't put it closer to the tank, especially when you already have the wiring in place. Just get a new filter, swap the pump for the new one and you should be good to go!

Sounds a little odd, that your pump doesn't change rate when pumping against a blocked line - it may be leaking pressure back to the intake. You could install a pressure gauge directly before the carbs, to see that your pump and regulator are actually maintaining 3-5psi of fuel pressure. I've...

The flow seems sufficient, although it's pathetic compared to a modern pump. Have you tried putting your finger over the end of the hose to see if it generates any pressure? Have you got the same sort of flow in the engine bay, or do you loose steam on the way there? The red light on your dash...

You probably have either a bored 3.5 or a 3.9 with a 3.5 intake system. The correct plug from a known brand, like NGK, Champion or Bosch will all do the trick. The NGK should be BP5HS, I think, but double check before buying. Now, to your idle issue and lack of grunt: I hate to point out the...

I second what Henry said - in fact, I recommend you do not drive it much at all until you find the problem and fix it. The 4.0 and 4.6 are particularly prone to secondary problems caused by overheating (slipped cylinder liners and cracked blocks) which will require a very expensive full rebuild...

Hi, I have been researching this in depth over the last few months, since I had steering column problems with my '07 td8 Vogue. My problems were solved by something totally unrelated (FBH), but I have read pretty much every word on the subject that can be found. From your description, my...

Dead on! This is the sort of stuff that can drive you totally bonkers. I went to two different workshops, one indy and one dealer, and I could tell they hadn't the faintest clue where to start looking. When a factory-trained LR tech is thrown off that easily, you know that the training is...

Cracked it! As implausible as it sounds, all faults were caused by the webasto FBH. I tried to think of what events took place before the faults first occurred, and I could only come up with one: I had replaced the FBH shortly before. The original one was smoking badly and kept going out, so I...

Hi all, Ancient thread, I know, but I'm having similar problems. Was this issue solved in the end, and what was the cure? I've been scouring the web for information, but I've drawn a blank on anything conclusive. Need help. Cheers, Henrik '07 L322 tdv8

Hi all, I'm in trouble here. The following issues all appeared at the same time: - Steering wheel does not return when ignition is switched off - Steering is as it should be for the first few seconds after starting, then goes heavy as if the speed-sensitive assistance is told I'm going fast...

Check your turbo hoses again. Did the problem arise after they were replaced? An induction air leak will throw turbo fault. This happened to me, so I know. Check hoses and clamps and have a buddy give it some stick while you monitor the engine for hissing air leaks.

Just a wee update for those interested: Rear calipers replaced, fronts overhauled with new pistons and seals, fluid changed. All back to normal! :) So, it seems that the morale is: If you service your car yourself, do not forget or ignore brake fluid change! Cheers, Henrik