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it will do regardless wont be with the nanocom itself but with all of the things you need to fix on the landrover

strangely this gearbox also gets clunky when its slightly overfilled so i would be making sure it was glass pond level and then checking that

tip i just used (this weekend as well on my D2 - seems everyone is doing them of late) remove the bolts for the rear of the front exhaust section so it can be moved out of the way slightly. i used a normal combination spanner and was able to get in there just. i did consider cutting one...

dunno why i wrote Original, was meant to be OEM.. i think my mind was still shocked at the cost of the ambient pressure sensor in the air box..

The list? sorted one of my front headlights condensation issues, for now. made up new oil lines from the autobox to the cooler (replaced the original flexible ends with a 12mm brass compression fitting, into 5/8ths male hose barb on both ends and fitted them to the box) fitted aftermarket oil...

changing he maf with an original delphi unit did do some for the smoothness, and also sorted a strange hot starting "limp mode" issue which cleared shortly after. (possibly IAT related as it only did it when the engine was hot) turned out the poor economy were the rear brakes dragging, one...

Anyone find it ironic that these are dispatched from crook, uk?

Ahh then scrap the inertia switch idea i had, that would mean your hazards would activate.. how about a battery cut off switch to the starter? would be easier? is it an auto?

i would hazard a guess that it's coming from around the nut at the top, possibly leaking where one of the cooler lines joins the gearbox. there are two, one from directly underneath and one from around the top left. check these are tight.

what purpose would this serve? i would be tempted to suggest you wire it into the inertia switch wiring, if its just a safety device for offroading in the event of an accident if it's not then something to do with the fuel pump wiring might be acceptable

Very quick question here, D2 auto-box.. is there a detente between D and 3rd gears? or should there be. i have had a look at the little toothed strip that prevents the gear stick from being moved without pressing the button, but it appears there is nothing between 3 and D on the lever...

Send the whole setup,with both sets of lights and the winch bumper to me.. I'll fit them and give you my opinions after a few months

Khumo KL71s are good for the price, one of the best all round mud biased tyres I used aside from the silly tyres I had before, insa turbo special tracs.

the amount of new oil that has gone in it it's almost had two complete full changes as it is (well, as much as will come out when you undo the cooler pipes), i refilled with just shy of 8 litres the first time.

Little background first: when i purchased my td5 auto it was cheap, but in overall good condition. as a result of the price there were a few jobs that needed doing. one of which was the oil cooler for the AT box, at some point in the past the AT box cooler had failed and been replaced with...

might be a case of buy cheap buy twice but it's a gamble you take unless you know the vehicle and know the gearbox.. has it been run dry, is the clutch about to **** itself and has 10 miles less, has some moron filled it with the incorrect oil and run it hot? has it been used to tow massive...

driver's side was replaced prior, its shiney and clear of debris

i can get a brand new lucas caliper for £80, i can get oem from paddock for £23 as well.. how are the OEM calipers for quality?

Needed.. anyone breaking a TD5 or similar D2 facelift? i am gonna be changing the pads and discs on the rear this week coming and may need a rear caliper if i cant free it off (i think it's binding) does anyone have a passenger side rear caliper from a disco 2 (or possibly p38, i believe they...

that's still there? the deer stall that is.. lovely.