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Mechanical things can always be fixed or swapped out, it's the chassis and bulkhead that are the important things to consider. Bear in mind, it will cost you a lot more than you think by the time you've done. I nearly fell through the floor when I totted up what my 109 cost me.

The bulkhead is the next big thing to consider, they are expensive if you need a new/recon one.

Really? I always find a dab of vaseline helpful when my big end is not sloppy.;)

Some further tips? If the distributor is still fitted, you can always turn the engine until the rotor arm approaches No 1 point on the cap then turn until the marks line up. If you accidentally go past the mark, don't just reverse direction back to the mark; always go back half a rotation or so...

I always plug the plug hole with my thumb to feel for the compression. When I feel the pressure building I know I'm on the compression stroke so I take my thumb away and keep turning until the TDC mark lines up. Saves taking the distributor cap or the valve cover off...

To your engine: You say it is making a horrible noise, is it a rattle?, in which case it could be a loose hot-spot which is what your Bolivian mechanic seems to be referring to. Head off to fix that. You might have injector issues as well. It needs investigation, you don't want that hot-spot...

That's your best option, good luck with it.

Pre-chamber of cylinder head. Culata is the proper form. Should say: I'm not a cunning linguist... Google Translate.

There is a simple answer to this: stuff another diff in it; there are plenty of Rover diffs around and not too expensive.

Having read your post I'm almost afraid to ask... How did you get the outer bearing race out? Did you get the outer race out? FRC4586 is not a bearing but the seal. Bearing is 539707. This is a big job you face if you have indeed scrapped the outer pinion shaft bearing and can't be done from...

Misunderstanding... my mistake.

Looks like a Vickers Vimy to me...

In addition to what James has said above, is there a pedal return spring fitted and is it pulling the pedal right back?

That's some bad luck you had there, I've never come across one that bad.

Like I said, easy job. All you need is a bench vice big enough and some sockets. Years of experience do help, I suppose...

Difficult to diagnose without hearing the noise; is it a metallic noise for instance? If so your theory could be correct. Another possibility occurs to me: that you have a broken gearbox or engine mounting? Another possibility: Exhaust touching on the chassis somewhere? New prop-shaft versus new...

Personally I don't like the RM ones; they are nothing like the real thing and stick out like a sore thumb, someone I know has one and it just doesn't look good or right. Having said that, I have no problems with the proper plastic grille, it looks right on a series 3 and sticking an earlier type...

Are you and Will getting confused with registration letters? Gearbox suffixes are nothing to do with reg letters. When Land Rover improved a gearbox they gave it a different suffix letter after the gearbox number stamped on the 'box itself. Nothing to do with registration letters: 'E' 1967, 'G'...

When I refurbished my 109, 9 years and 10,000 miles ago, I put some Britpart, blue polybushes in the rear springs only, none in the chassis. I did this because I had the bushes, they came with the Land Rover. I've had no issues and they are still in perfect condition, sitting concentrically. I...

This interests me so much that I've sent an email to Flo-Flex. Prepare to be educated - if they reply that is...