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Many thanks Suburban - checked out their website - I will give them a call tomorrow.

Cheers me dears. I know a very good fabricator locally - just need to convince him to do it (he usually makes gates).

Many thanks Jimsky and Rob. A question tho' how do they get on welding over the top of the chassis section with the tub still in place?

Hi, I live in the Bristol/Bath area an wondered if anyone would recommend someone local with experience of replacing the rear cross member on a S3 who is reliable. I will probably go to the rear quarter - just not confident enough with a welder to do it myself. Thanks

Actually, 205 r16 had a profile of 82 - so 205/80/r16 I so close as to be not noticeable.

I was thinking of a spare maybe. So, ordered new master cylinder, slave cylinder (Lucas TRW) and new pipes and hose so it gets complete makeover. Probably will look for a refurb kit tho' - just to keep the old part as a standby.

Righty ho - I had sort of heard something about cylinder bores being the critical thing ie if they are OK (or not). I will look for a refurb kit, not that easy with old Girling parts these days.

Just discovered a totally dry clutch hydraulic system on the weekend - further investigations indicate a very leaky slave cylinder. Slave is off the vehicle, its a very well made Girling. Is it worth refurbing with a set of seals or bin it for a Lucas replacement? Would welcome thoughts...

Definitely fixed by this indicator unit. With trailer lights attached all is now working a treat.

Ru

I think I may have found a solution, a Lucas SFB130 indicator unit, 89w load so it should cope with a trailer

Thanks for the link Blackburn. It looks very heavy duty at 140w max load. Not quite clear from the ad whether it's is 2 pin or 4 pin.

I wish mine was like that, with a trailer board attached they flash like demented things. Defo having trouble finding a 2 pin relay that is heavy enough at the moment.

Darren, that's a clever piece of kit. If I can't find a better relay then this looks the way to go. What I don't get tho' is the vehicle is designed to tow but 42 years later the indicators are playing up. Surely it wasn't like that when it wa built.

Hi there, So, prob with the indicators. When there is nothing connected to the tow socket they work a treat. Once I plug in the trailer they indicate really fast and dimly. Today I replaced and changed: The 12N socket The wiring to the socket from the loom by connecting the tow electrics to...

Wot Tottot said - use a 6.00 x 16. I've got Avon Ranger AT's 205/80 R16 all round with an old Pirelli Cinterato 6.00 x 16 handing on the rear door. Must say it looks good and it isn't so heavy as to pull at the hinges either.

Well, I need to get up and out earlier next year. To be fair we didn't hit the A354 until about 11am when it was stopped solid.

They look great. Would have been nice to get there on Sunday, but after queuing on the A354 for several hours I turned the Landy around and headed off home. Still, my recent overhaul of the cooling/heating system obviously worked as I had no problems with engine temperature sitting for hours...

I think it's the sliding joint that's gone. Thee UJs look fine (paradoxically). So unfortunately it's a new PS.

Many thanks Tottot & Blackburn, I did wonder if the sliding joint is done for. It does have a lot of movement and under hard acceleration it sound like the engine is blowing somewhere (which it ain't). So next question is - who makes the best replacement prop shaft?