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easy way to check without jacking any wheel - remove all 4 rubber caps off the flanges, start 110 without difflock engaged - chock wheels front and rear, put in gear with handbrake off, look from the side as to which prop is rotating, then look at the centre off the drive flange to see which...

The Imp was a much maligned car, most of its cooling problems where caused by its failure to obtain type approval - the side lights where too low, so with the tooling already in place the easy solution was to fit longer front springs and shocks to achieve the correct height for approval - this...

could well be the right hand front driveshaft cv joint failed ( inside the swivel housing), its normally that one that goes first and causes the symptoms you are having

only needs a blowtorch to anneal them - it is easy once you get the hang of them

it does take a lot of practice to get them right and a fair amount of force against the blow of the hammer - try before commiting to the correct fitment on the bonnet, the last body I made took over 1,500 snap rivets !!

Use the inverted dome tool on the outside, insert the rivet into a countersunk hole( all sides of holes - gives more grip) then using a small hammer on the protuding section work in circular motion to peen it fully down, once tight heat anneal as it will crack in use without doing that

yes I have used them when making alloy car bodies

had the same problem, syncmate showing blue then flashing red led's- plugged another RF receiver and all was well again, synced off the eka code without the need of the syncmate

its only going to come off with shock not force - the same way some idiot appears to have fitted it back on, yesterdays fan removal was a bitch as somebody in there infinate wisdom had use loctite on the the thread !!

long socket extension or 2 - then hit the flat of the nut on the right hand side - takes a few blows but always undoes ( removed 2 p38 TD fans this week using this method after spanner and hammer did not work)

just been through similair problem that you are experiencing - it was the RF receiver at fault, just put another one on and the EKA code was accepted instantly - worth a try if you can get hold of one

I use my RHD P38 every day here in PT, only time it causes a problem is if I am alone in car on autoroute to collect ticket and pay at booth

UK prices most items. Normally use ebay buy it now prices as a guide or split the difference between OLX and ebay - fair to everybody then.

I have my own workshop here, so will be breaking it myself and using the usual PT websites to sell the parts - a lot of it has already been sold by word of mouth + previous owner bought a PT registered car to replace it and he has bought back all the interior and rear window mechanism as his one...

Portugal has its own ideas on registering EU vehicles - bleed the owners dry!! Last vehicle I sent for matriculation (put on PT plates) was a Disco 300 for a customer, cost 500€ for the paperwork, 110€ for certificate of authenticity, 85€ for MOT inspection, then a trip to Customs for them to...

Technically the car cannot be used here - been in Portugal for a lot longer than the 6 months that is allowed - its on UK plates and there is no way it can be put on PT plates. So its either send it back to UK for sale or break it. Pity either way as its only got 81k on the clock with full...

After NOT wanting a Freelander for many years I now own a TD4 - couldn't say no really as the guy has been a customer for 3 years with it, he mentioned last year that he wanted to upgrade at some time this year and would I be interested in buying - so I made a stupidly low...

above the description area to the right there is "report an item" in blue - click on it and follow instructions

Yup - in Tabua , Central Portugal

Mine is a '96 2.5dt manual, 119k on the clock. Have owned it for 3 years with only minimal parts thrown at it in that time - gets used every day(tarmac and dirt) and most weekends its out playing on the dirt lanes in this area