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I doubt very much you will get Any torque figures from LR, let alone an acceptable range before bit needs changing. I worked at gaydon for years, the amount of dead wood there is staggering, with only a few actually knowledgeable and useful people there, a lot of who are contractors or permanent...

I Like plan b!!! Lol! Really can't see the point of calculating the torque as it all depends on the rate of how the force is applied, it just over complicates things. What simpler than a known length of bar and weight, more people can knock that up in the garage than something that requires...

Best of luck I tried that, even going through the back door via a neighbour who worked for JLR transmissions at Gaydon. LR still don't officially admit there is a problem with the vcu. The best test is the known weight, applied via a known length of bar, directly on the the spline of the vcu...

Yes that's us ;)

No, just a bit of a Chinese puzzle sliding the new one back in, the old one popes out then you cant understand for the life of you how the new ones slides back in ;)

Lie under car, grab nose of diff and push it up and down, it should move a small amount, excessive movement and diff mount is ripped. If you look at the mount you can also usually see the tear

No such thing as misalignment, just bolt it back on, and be careful with the front CV boot as man handle the prop

Only way for mondo is stripped spline (not really mondo), fluid leaked out or its been messed with.

We don't make them less stiff, we recondition them to the same spec as originals. Its easy to make them less stiff by removing a pair of plates, this still gives 4 wheel drive but far less. As I said before, a properly goosed vcu's silicon fluid will have turned to jelly, you could leave it...

Yes they have burrs on, this is what helps create the shearing effect through the silicon. None of the burrs touch each other and its purely the fluid that flows against it. We looked at the state of these plates when first looking into reconditioning the units and comparing a new vcu plates...

We have come across units that have had various fluids pumped in, including paraffin, engine oil, diff oil. All of these just loosen them to the point nothing is transferred, especially as they get hotter and the added fluid gets thinner due to the heat

You cannot drain fluid from a Naggered vcu as it turns into a jelly, the only way to recon a vcu properly is to cut it open.

We usually press new high quality bearings in to good condition used hangers. We have tried using bought in complete new units, but can never guarantee which bearings they come with. There are also some cheap after market hangers/bearings that the rubbers are too stiff, causing a horrible...

Glad you are happy with the result ;)

See you tomorrow ;) £300 all in including bearings

Check that the large diameter cup of the CV joint is almost touching the diff, off you can see more than a few mm of the shaft its popped out. Grab the cup and try AMS pull it in and out it should only move 5mm at most

Take prop off and drive it. Diff is scrap anyway. Just check driveshafts haven't popped out of diff and this can happen when diff over heats and melts the breather. You could also remove rear diff and driveshafts (pull outer CV joint apart) to reduce risk of diff falling apart and damaging...

Theres a good chance thats what caused it, the overall circumfrance will be too larger difference between the fronts and caused the VCU to have to slip to much, cooking it and locking it up, causing loads of strain down the driveline, wearing the iRD and rear diff. The rear diff has failed...

Does it stink of gas? If so the diff has overheated, this will be due either tires being mismatched or tight vcu

You can buy the ujs for a few £ from the usual online suspects.