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Have no fear about Nanocom, as Fery says, it is the bees knees for D2's but expensive. Periodically there are group buys arranged on www.d2bc.co.uk which makes the price a little better. But I would not regard it as a "super dooper tool that is a bit over the top". It is just a really good...

What did you download? Was it an .iso file? If so you must burn this "image" to a DVD using software that converts it to a usuable file like "Imgburn". Then you will have the actual files. Usually with RAVE you have to install it. With my version, you copy all the files to a location you...

+1

Electrician's tape is better than nothing, but not easy to remove after it has been heated, and where you are....!!!!!!!

I would suggest that you get it plugged into a Nanocom or similar and have a look at live data to make sure all is ok first, then clear all faults and go for a drive and the read faults again. This way you get rid of historic stored faults. It should show something up. The MAF (Mass Air Flow)...

You can get to the cable from underneath, but can't really see what you are doing. Its not hard or difficult to remove the centre console, no, just a bit fiddly, (be careful with the plastic bits), and you have to disconnect the handbrake too, so make sure the wheels are chocked, but once...

Probably the most important cables to safeguard, and the ones that suffer more than most, is that part of the engine loom that comes across the front of the engine and goes to the water temp sensor, then onto the aircon pump and on to the MAF and then AAP in the airbox. The covering of these...

+1 safest way, and change twice, with the filter change on the second change as Fery says. Tony

Ok, so a proper Wabco. In that case it is either not seated properly, or dirt on the reluctor ring or the air gap is too big, but as said get a plug in to ensure it is the same hub that is giving you the error, as the one you replaced..... Or see here...

None of it sounds normal...... Not sure about the door not showing as closed, but if this was the case you would get a mis-lock when locking. Do you get the mis-lock tone when locking? As far as the fob not working after 6 hrs, this may well be either the fob battery, or if you are sure it is...

Many on www.d2bc.co.uk have fitted them. Check it out there.

Did you use a Wabco sensor? Some others give false readings, and as said the air gap is critical. Get it plugged in and clear all faults and then go for a drive and read again. Find somebody near you with a Nanocom or Hawkeye to give you a plug in. There is a locator map of people who have...

Don't forget that if you have the engine cover fitted on a td5, the MOT tester is not allowed to remove it. With it fitted he would be hard pushed to see if the EGR is still in place or not.......

It doesn't matter what year, all the original intercooler hoses de-laminate. If they are as old as you say, then they definitely could do with replacing and when you look inside them once off, you may see that they have de-laminated inside without any outward sign. As regards silicon hoses...

Don't worry about pics. As said, if the rubber is down to the hole, then they are knackered, there should be about 10mm between the hole and the rubber when you look up from underneath. You will be pleasantly surprised how much difference it makes. If they are f'bard, the chances are the two...

Ian, Exactly yes, because its on the transmission, not the wheels. (Didn't think I needed to explain that otherwise it would roll away with one wheel up)...

Yes, movement of the vehicle. Because the brake is on the transmission, once you have applied the handbrake, and let off the footbrake, the drive train (transmission) will take up any slack in itself, gearbox, transfer box, UJ's, diffs etc, all have some slack in them, and this is the movement...

Beaten to it by Fery. There should be three clicks on the handbrake, and some movement after you release the footbrake, after applying the hand brake is normal. As said the brake is on the transmission, not the rear wheels as is usual, therefore there will always be movement (slack) in the drive...

In my experience the only blades that actually manage to hit all the screen are either genuine LR or Bosch 807's...

Quite normal system on a td5 as well, but as said, you need to actually stop it starting........