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Maybe siezed wheel bearing?

There were P38 diesels with vacumm pumps - the ones fitted with EGR system(MY99 and onwards).

Removing tank is easy, no need to butcher floor.

Fit only BERU(they were factory fitted) glow plugs to this engine. Cycling ingition 2 or 3 times will also bleed(if in tank pump is working) injection pump if it's getting air in the system(trough leakoff pipes for example) and it will be easier to start. Anyway it should start like Chuck...

It's straight swap only for older type of M51 with smaller hole(different block) for injection pump.

The truth is that traction control kills momentum in slippery conditions.

When crank pulley is on it's way out it knocks only when there is load on it on low revs. Its simply dual mass pulley(harmonic balancer), no need for it when spinning fast, hence why it smoothens on higher revs.

BTW, 2,4td injection pump can be fitted to M51, but it needs a ring to center it, as it has smaller diameter sealing flange.

Probably crankshaft pulley disintegrated.

EDC were the early ones with potentiometer(fuer return facing upwards on top cover) - discontinued somewhere 1995-1996 - it wasn't repairable once potentiometer traces worn, new pump top not avalible anymore, even at BOSCH. HDK with fuel return facing backwards. Mine is MY98 and its HDK pump...

I would also add, that diesels have tendency to runaway with constant fuel rate and low load, thats why injection pump governors were introduced years ago. In fact, those electronic pumps are very simple, far more simplier than those with mechanical/hydraulic governor. Just set hot engine...

It's not that simple. You are not moving control collar directly! It's the ECU that decides to move control collar and set desired RPM. By moving top of the pump you only alter minimum and maximim achievable fuelling. But if you go beyond limits, then the ECU has problems with controlling...

No, it won't increase idle speed on HDK type pump top(but it will do that on old potentiometer type pumps - newer seen that type on P38), but it can "runaway" if you set fuelling too high(low number). In most cases setting it up to 3 mg/stroke is safe, but it can cause erratic idling(as the...

First of all check battery(It should be at least 800A CCA) and voltage loss(with simple multimeter set on VDC) between negative battery terminal and metal engine elements(valve cover for example). Anything more than 0.01V will cause problems with cranking speed. Earth straps on this model are...

It's not transmission problem. Check fuel rate on diagnostics, it should be somewhere between 4-6 mg/stroke on hot engine without load(lights off) and HEVAC on AUTO. Also check fuel temperature readings - should be around 40-50 deg C. If fuelling is bigger value, then you have to move(tap it...