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If,as I suspect, mine is a bizarre mix of petrol and diesel engine maybe I have the incorrect sprocket which has put the timing out, and why it smokes so much! After a quick search it looks like both 568474 and 276133 have both been superceded by ETC5551 which has just one keyway. Does it need...

Yes, good point! Moving the battery shouldn't be a huge problem, I just wanted to keep the series "look".

Thanks, I think that's probably the best thing to do. I'm sure that most, if not all of the parts are the same. Just out of interest, if I put a 12J in a series 3, would I have to move the battery to make room for the injector pump? Or could I convert it to use the original series pump in...

I've just been out and taken a look. It actually matches the log book, which is nice! It begins S251, looking around the net I've found that 251 is a petrol engine number, which is weird! As already mentioned, it was originally a petrol, Could it be that somebody has put a diesel head on a...

The block on mine is light blue, so I think that's MOD, and could be 3 or 5 bearing - I'll check for the pattern though. The head is terracotta but I think I'm correct in saying that the later heads fit to earlier blocks! Interesting, my 2A parts catalogue has the same part number for both...

The injectors are new, so hopefully the pressures are good! Their wasn't any difference in the smoke produced after I changed them, though it does run and start better. That's a good idea, I've not actually seen the engine number yet, I've no idea what age the engine is or if it's a 3 or 5...

I've just opened up the timing case, so I need to order the parts! Checking online and eBay I can get DA1337 which is timing chain kit for a series 2/2A/3 petrol up to 1974. As far as I can see the timing parts for the diesel and petrol are the same, and go past 1974! These kits work out...

Mines a series 3 and I double de-clutch on down changes. Well, I do when it's possible - as already mentioned heel and toe is very tricky - if I need to be braking and changing down then I'll not do it!

They were white, I painted them Limestone. But they were in very good condition anyway.

Thanks for all the replies, I finally got some 750s on Defender rims, 2 x Avon Rangemaster (on the front), 2 x Event Limus (Rear) and 1 x Michelin, er, something as the spare! Before: And After:

That looks really good, if I can get that sort of finish I'll be happy! How did the indents for the screws look once it was fitted? I did think about putting some cup washers on there to make it look a little neater.

I watched a Youtube video where they filled any holes and marks with body filler before putting the vinyl on, I'll give that a go! I've ordered some Trimfix, thanks for the replies.

Hi All, I'm going to some vinyl over my dash top (series 3), to hide all of the holes and broken bits. But I'm unsure of which glue to use. I've previously used a spray carpet contact adhesive (on an old Mini) which worked well until it got hot in the summer and then the glue melted and it...

Ah, thanks for that. It's due to smoking that I want to do the timing, the pump is advanced as far as it will go currently.

Hi All, I'm looking to do the timing chain, tensioner, sprockets etc on my series 3 diesel. I can see that it's quite easy to get a kit for petrol models up to 1974, but not diesels. I thought that all the timing equipment was the same on 2.25 petrol and diesel engines? I've got an S2/S2A...

Thanks all, much appreciated. I'll look out for some 2nd hand Defender wheels, and if they come with decent tyres that's a bonus!

I'm thinking about getting a set of new tyres for the Landy (1972 SWB series 3 diesel). Currently it's got 205 80 R16, but I was thinking about something bigger, maybe 7.5 R16, just to get a little more top speed really! Of course I could get 235 I guess, but I don't really want to get too wide...

The dash switch definitely only has either the park or the live feeding the motor at any point, so it makes sense that the park switch going to earth is reason for that. Thinking about it, a double pole flick switch wouldn't work either, as the park path would be live through it when the main...

Ah yes, could be - probably heating up the switch and causing the contacts to bend, but not enough to blow the fuse. So really I'd need a double pole flick switch, with one pole making the live feed and the other breaking the park feed when flicked on, and vice versa when off. I thought it'd...

Well, that makes no sense! I've just fitted one of the switches and everything worked (including the flick wipe) for a bit. And then stopped. If I moved the connectors on the wiper switch it worked for a bit longer! I've gone back to the spare switch without the flick wipe and all is good. But...