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Yes, OEM

Nope. Just from where it fits on the rad spigot (for now...)

Newish rad, brand new genuine top hose... *still* leaking from the joint, but only on the 10th or so journey and 500 or so miles since changing the hose, and seemingly only once the engine has cooled after a run. Looks like a few teaspoons worth, judging by the size of the drip mark on the...

Changed the top hose, for what must be the 5th or 6th time. Wet and dried the metal pipes where the hose pushes on this time, have an idea that scale and pitting has been contributing to leaks. We'll see if it does any good... Continued doing bits & bobs from 144k service, got a list of...

2001, 144K, tightness seemed just right but no thread lock RTV mission to Ashbourne successful, and went with gasket-on-sump in the end All back together and back on the road And now, cider

Thanks all for the tips - Halfords it is then!

Started doing the oil pump bolt. Got the x-member off and was feeling pretty smug for discovering the captive nuts could be pinged off by whacking the sheared-off bolt ends - still stuck in the nuts - from underneath with a suitable sized punch and a lump hammer. Felt less smug when I discovered...

+1 on checking disc temp. Hot smell was first sign of binding caliper slider for me, although I'd expect that to show up more after longer runs at higher speeds

I have one > it willuse more fuel Potentially true - if you like the noise it can somewhat egg on your right foot > and be a bugger to start. Utter twaddle

There you go - and *not* a face-lift model

My 51 plate D2 definitely has them (they're in use most weeks)

Lovely lovely big bad tractory noise. Possibly goes a bit better. But the noise. Did I mention the noise?

For the first time in 50k miles and 4 years, just done 1000 miles without needing a coolant top-up. It took... - new water pump - 3 new top hoses (first 2 were aftermarket dross) - new o-rings on fuel cooler - rtv down the rad cowling screw holes - cylinder head core plug replace - then a new...

Yes Don't worry about the noise. Some report things getting a bit 'boomier' inside, personally I didn't notice. The most noticeable change is outside, where you'll hear a heavy-duty 'chirrup' coming through the tailpipe - bloody gorgeous!!!

Pirtek is a good shout - just up the road. Thanks!

PAS pipes are looking horribly corroded, but like-for-like replacement seems like a proper arse-ache - talking around 150 squids for the pipe set, and probably a day's worth of dismantling and refitting to access the pipe run (which is buried under the rad pack). I saw an interesting...

Even if you suspect a HG or cracked head, 100ml loss per 500 miles (say) isn't necessarily an existential threat to your engine (in the absence of oil contamination). Suggestion: monitor it, record replenishment amounts, dates and mileages. If the rate keeps increasing, you have a deteriorating...

So this sounds like the old chestnut where the screws that hold the fan cowl onto the rad self-tap (yes, you read that right) into the end chamber of the rad, and the thin wall around the screw is susceptible to cracking over time. Easy to check by whipping off the cowl and see if coolant...

Yeah, "hard to say" is about as close as I got. Problem solved anyway, just switched to NFU

Trying to get my disco TD5 centre box delete notified to Churchill, they say they need to know a number for the change in BHP ("let's assume it's more" is not specific enough for them) 1. WTF? 2. Anyone know the answer? It's an otherwise bog standard 10P engine, auto box