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Got the old girl (D2 TD5, before you ask) back from Joe at JR Classics in Doncaster. She was supposed to be in for just the week for Dinitrol treatment and some new side-steps, but some horrors were discovered once the sill covers and wheel arch liners came off, so she stayed an extra week for...

If coolant was rusty coloured when you got it, could the rad be clogged?

If rubber is filling the hole, it's knackered. Before shelling out on new ones (and you'll want genuine or OEM), any sign of oil contamination? Long term oil exposure can cause the rubber to soften and collapse over time

I can vouch for this - it was the only thing that worked for me first time viscous fan came off. Bit of copper grease on the thread and one smart tap on fan spanner has been enough since

> I'm still confused as to why a technique that worked for hundreds of rivets suddenly became so unsatisfactory Any major changes in ambient temp?

If you're prepared to rev it "more than you'd think for a diesel", they're not so bad. I spent months creeping around at "diesel revs" in mine before I realised the TD5 lump is perfectly happy fizzing away at 3000 rpm. Or if that bothers you, get an uprated TC?

So what's involved in getting the front cover off? Does sump need taking off? How much disassembly needed round the top end? How much of a b*gger is the crank pulley?

> A common "fault" can be that you'renot giving it enough loud pedal... I suffered the same issue when I first got my TD5. This. In particular, forget about trying to drive a TD5 auto "like a diesel" (i.e. with lowish but torquey revs). You can use way more revs than you might think, and...

> Bloody switch, never seem to get it right! My half-baked theory from pondering the same annoyance lately: seems like a classic switch contact "bounce" problem. Maybe Land Rover just never bothered de-bouncing the switch? It's one of very few push-once-to-trigger switches on the vehicle, so...

TD5 auto has 4 forward gears plus the torque converter can be made to lock up. Aim of lockup is to provide direct drive at cruising speeds, thus removing viscous losses and achieve greater fuel economy. TD5 should lock up at 52mph or thereabouts in 4th gear with selector in 'D'. It can also...

Easier with the inlet manifold off. You might find the inlet manifold gasket needs doing anyway if it hasn't been touched for a while - for some reason the manifold nuts are prone to work loose, which contaminates the gasket with carp from the EGR Have a look for oily gunk oozing from the...

> I've also tapped from the fan feed back up to the binnacle to power a "proving" LED so I can check the auto-run is working as intended Interesting (to me) post-script to this ... the "proving" LED starts glowing dimly at 40mph, becoming fully bright by 50mph, long after the 1 minute auto-run...

Having changed the cooling fan motor earlier in the year, I wanted to see if it was possible to prevent the new one from rusting up like the old one by giving the fan a little bit of "on" time on a regular basis. Someone on here mentioned that some owners just add an override button, but being...

Two light-seconds within reach then - 372,564. That's quite far. Original turbo???

Love it! Disco TD5 here, acquired on 86,000 miles, now on 150,000 with no major dramas to report (plenty of minor dramas, of course) Next big milestone is one light-second (186,000 miles approx - I should look up the exact amount I suppose . .. )

Tiny shout out for RimmerBros - ordered a *lot* from them over past few years, found them prompt and accurate with dispatching and they seem to Actually Hold Stock, right down to random annoying little O-rings and special bolts Disclaimer: I have no connection or interest in Rimmerbros, so this...

> The solvent used should not attack any of the original materials, such as plastics. Good shout - encountered this today using Servisol for exact same job. Rubber seal in red plug doesn't like it and swells up. IPA probable better bet

Takes payment -> uncontactable ... if it walks like fraud, talks like fraud ... - why not a police matter?

Kin ell, that is one mental "underseal" job. Looks like it's been applied on top of the dirt and rust? But only on downward facing surfaces in some places. And except the rear radius arm. They really made sure that rear radius arm got a right good seeing-to. Mindboggling.

Ignoring the coolant splatter, but is that bottom one also oil-contaminated? Personally, I'd fix the oil leak before exposing a new mount to same treatment. ... but yeah, the rubber shouldn't be sitting that low in the mount.