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To check how much of a role the centre diff has in the total backlash. Does locking the centre diff bypass its slack/play? Perhaps I could just go for a drive (being careful not to turn tightly) and assess the jerky gearchange issue I have?

My complaint is not that the synchros are not engaging nicely etc. The gearbox itself feels very nice and precise. Its after you have selected say 4th gear and release the clutch it is very very hard to do so without a head jolt. I'm beginning to wonder if I have too much backlash in the ring...

So just to expand on my complaint that I am trying to fix. Changing gears, even when attempting to rev match results in a jerk. I am confident that no matter who is driving the vehicle gear changes will be made with an unpleasant head tossing jerk. I was told by the previous owner the vehicle...

Here is what LOF clutches said: Thanks for getting in touch, So the flywheel (Dual/Solid) should not effect the clutch gear changes, so I would suggest it maybe something else (Gearbox syncros or hydraulic maybe?) Regarding the flywheel- do you know what make it is? RE using a dual mass...

When you fitted the SMF did you also change the clutch to the appropriate sprung friction plate?

Hmmm. I'm caught between a rock and a hard place. I do notice however that LOF clutches offer an "extreme spec" clutch for use with a dual mass flywheel. I also do not tow and am not exactly a boy racer. I want the VNT to give low end torque. I will write to LOF to see if they have any...

Yes I tend to agree with reverting back to dual mass. I don't understand why a single mass would be beneficial beyond being more mechanically tough. I plan to install a VNT turbo to the TD5 (currently stage 2). WOuld a valeo dual mass be suitable with the higher torque load?

That youtube video seems like a clumsy way of checking alignment. If you could machine an aluminium dummy seal with clearance fit ID and OD you could just attempt to dry fit the shaft and wheel bearing. If it is not centered it would just be obvious and you could adjust accordingly. Has anyone...

I purchased a TD5 Disco 2 that I believe has a solid mass LOF clutch. I find driving the car that gear changes are hard to perform without a nasty jerk. It really does detract from the driving experience. Is this problem normal and expected with a single mass clutch? This is my first manual...

I did wonder about the alignment. But had no way to check. Could you post a link or image of the alignment tool?

Does anyone know if the electric air conditioning condenser cooling fan mount brackets (pictured) are available as replacements? Mine are heavily corroded.

OK. I think I have figured it out. Its a water baffle I believe. It helps with wading, deflecting a wave from surging into the intake hole. I don;t know this for sure but looking at its design, foam seals and its shape and positioning relative to intake, it certainly seems like its the case...

DOes anyone know what this part does and where it fits? Its a "baffle" inside the left wing. I suspect it baffles the air intake deflecting water but I cant for my life figure how it fits in??

Is there any harm in trying to disconnect the transmission controller? Would I need to do something with a nanocom?

How involved would it be to change out the inner wing entirely?

THat looks fairly straight forward. What thickness steel did you use?

I took the arch liner out. Not good. What is the collective wisdom on this situation? Is it case of cutting out the rot and welding in a patch? Or perhaps a new wheel arch part entirely? I am not just aiming to keep the vehicle alive to pass MOTs, rather preserve a good example of a classic car.

Yep. Breather is fine. Just crap seals. Hopefully the NAK ones I ordered will sort it.

Good point. I will check.

Yes I did also read somewhere that it is a wabeco sensor. I opted against the "G"!