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will go through the replies in detail but to answer the easiest question it's only got 138,000 on it so not that much. Chances are the head has been sat for a while before going on mine. I know the guy I bought it off well enough as I've bought various parts off him and he's pretty honest. He...

Thanks for the response. What am I looking for when it's up to temp? Just the appearance of oil burn smoke? If I do get this what does it suggest? If I don't get any smoke do you think it could be oil leaking into the turbo while it's sat still? Although I did get oil with only a 30mins gap...

So I have a D1 R Reg 300tdi which overheated due to the expansion resivoir cap being left on (don't say anything!!!! :mad:). This resulted in a cracked head. It was sat in my yard for 6 months and I've finally got round to sorting it out. I've put a breaker head on and new gaskets (head...

Over the past 24 - 48hrs my D3 06 plate has developed a scraping noise which seems to be related to revs . It's most noticeable coming from the off side section of the engine inside/above the wheel arch area. It sounds likes a whirring/scraping noise as if a bearing is dry or some kind of pump...

Just bought a Disco 3 with some really poor Nexxen tyres on it. I need an all terrain for muddy fields etc (about 25% of my driving) but there seem to be really limited choices for a the 19" rims I have. As I said above I'm about 75% road miles with another 25% off road at festivals/farm tracks...

I didn't but now have and it lists as 618 which equals white gold. Thanks @neilly

Can anyone shed any light on the paint colour? It's a very light gold type colour and I presume it means Armada gold which I got from this page: http://www.landyworld.co.uk/discovery-technical/land-rover-paint-codes/ Code: STC9VA

I'm tidying up my 1998 Discovery 1. It's never going to be perfect but there's a few areas where the paint could do with attention, it's bubbling up and has chipped off in one place. It gets used for what it's meant for so I'm not bothered about a perfect finish by any stretch but wanted to...

Managed to get this sorted in the end. after drilling out I managed to save/retap about 60% of the thread. I put a bolt all the way through and nut on the other side to be sure. In the end the damage wasn't as severe as I first thought. thanks for the replies, especially @jamesmartin & @neilly...

That's the plan!

It's more centered but pushed for an answer I'd say it's still a bit out.

Sorry, not completely. There's a 6mm hole all the way through but still some metal left around that where as the front is 8mm when I stopped

ah right 8.5mm drill. I'm still slightly unclear though. Are suggesting welding the hole then drilling/tapping and cleaning up the face with a dremel or equiv? Sorry for all the questions, I really am learning here!

OK thanks, I clearly need treating like a bit of an idiot if you've read the thread. When you say tapping size, what size do you mean?

Correct if I'm wrong but I thought m10 x 1.5mm required a 8.38mm for 100% thread engagement. So I would start with 8mm, for 70% it's 8.86mm so at a push I'll go up to 9 but obviously I want the high tensile bolt to be as snug as possible.

I mig welded a nut on three times at a touch over 100amps which should of got the penetration I needed and certainly heated the bolt up a fair bit but alas the welds would not hold once I put anything over about 10 - 15nm torque on it. With the current I was a bit worried about overheating the...

yes I did but he's not around and I stupidly forged on. It's a captive bolt but isn't blind. I'm wondering if I drill it whether it's a bad idea to then bolt the other side? And yes the axle is rusty, I don't know any one with the right kit who's not a garage machanic and so therefore ££. The...

After snapping off a stub hub bolt in the rear axle chassis of a D1 300tdi I've made the situation worse. I tried welding a nut onto the bolt several times but because it's a high tensile bolt (and my beginner welding skills) the weld just kept snapping under the torque without budging the bolt...

I might get shot down here but I think it's the L230 if it's the transfer box as others have suggested. About £200 - 250 on ebay for a breaker part or £495 for a reconned one from Ashcroft transmissions http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/transfer-boxes/lt-230.html

haha it probably is, this DIY landrover stuff is a bit of a learning curve. I end up spending more money on tools than if I sent to the garage but it's all worth it as it wont be the only LR I own in my life time.