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If the vehicle is immobilised and requiring the EKA, only the drivers door will unlock with the key, so that aspect of the behaviour is "normal". What you need to track down is why it's suddenly started to go into alarmed mode when locked. It could still be the drivers door latch microswitches...

I did consider upgrading it, mainly to get the benefits of the 14.4v setpoint and keep the MF31-1000 alive for longer, but that's now 3 years old and still going strong on 13.8v. The old GEMS is now the other half's daily driver and has moved from "improvement" to "maintenance and servicing...

Don't think so Grrrrrr, but can't say I've looked really. When I did the +ve cable mod on my GEMS, I fitted an additional 25mm2 ground directly from -ve on battery to alternator body, just to give the weedy 105A alternator the best chance of coping.

The early GEMS (not sure when it changed) had the main alternator feed from the alternator to the battery run via the starter motor! It's a long run with a lot of potential for breaks and damage. A well known mod was/ is to run a 25mm2 cable direct between the batt +ve and alternator output, and...

OBD connector location 12 to DB9 location 3 OBD connector location 11 to DB9 location 2 OBD connector location 1 to DB9 location 7 OBD connector location 5 to DB9 location 5

Charge your battery first Chris

As far as the electrical tests go (even though you haven't had a chance to complete yet) Your battery may be knackered- needs a good charge then test again You're dropping 0.5v somewhere in your main cables/ earths/ alternator under load. This is way too high and you need to do the voltage drop...

51psi in old money

Fuse 33 is the power feed for diagnostics. If that blows, no diagnostics

I'll third that. Have MF31-1000 on both of mine. https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/hankook-mf31-1000.html

On the floor with the parking brake on, in Park and footbrake on is fine. You don't have to cycle through gears while filling.

Have you checked the diagnostics fuse Colin? F33 IIRC.

I do Chris. What I don't have, unfortunately, is any knowledge of diesels beyond the theoretical. Your charging circuit looks a bit flaky though. Do the tests in this sheet to find out where your problem lies

Tech info and guides for each ECU for the Nano are downloadable (or viewable) at https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads

If the car is locked with the fob and unlocked with the key it will go into an alarmed state and demand EKA code entry or fob press. In that condition only the drivers door will unlock

Assuming that your car is not in an alarmed state, all doors should unlock when you turn the key to unlock. I'd do a quick test on the 3 microswitches in the latch if I were you. MartyUk has a very useful sheet on the test process http://p38webshop.co.uk/RRdocs/P38%20Door%20Latch%20Tests.pdf

£6 + for the stalk, but a bit more to pay someone to turn on "trip computer" in BECM if you don't have the dedicated diagnostics to do it yourself.

Your autobox fluid level check wasn't quite correct. See Refill, and with oil cold:

Don't know with EASUnlock, but it does with the Nano. Nano will also tell you status of thermal switch. Not sure if EASUnlock does.