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Taking the bulbs out won’t fix the display message, unless you take out all of the display bulbs. Would it still pass if you can’t display mileage etc?

Might be better off shifting this to the RR section as not a lot of people land here.

A fully charged 12V battery sits at 12.6V so no alternator is set to 12.2V, as at that level the battery is 50% discharged.

... and a duplicate answer! You said you got all replacement locks and fobs as well. It is just possible that your old system was 433 MHz and the replacement fobs 315 MHz or vice versa. If that is the case then the receiver won't "see" the key as it is in the wrong band. We have trouble here...

You said you got all replacement locks and fobs as well. It is just possible that your old system was 433 MHz and the replacement fobs 315 MHz or vice versa. If that is the case then the receiver won't "see" the key as it is in the wrong band. We have trouble here with the same issue. I bought a...

Spot on.

Fly wire example.

Well if he wants do a full bleed, which would be the best way to go, follow the directions in the manual and forget the fancy kit. The best option is Mark’s pressure blended though, just a little expensive for a one off use.

Good lord, who knew QH was still in business!

The "air" one is a vacuum bottle. You hook it up and it "sucks" the fluid through. The other look to be a catch can only.

Do you have the dash lights turned up? Turn on your headlights, turn your dash lights up to full brightness, turn off the lights and see if that has made a difference.

The hoses are O ring sealed. The pipe nuts are just nipped tight enough to seal the O ring. No ptfe required.

http://www.engineguard.eu.com/

Of course, there is the possibility that the Nanocom is at fault. Any chance you can see if you can find another car to try it on?

With no CEL on a GEMS means no connection between the ECU and BeCM. If you have the problem before and it cured itself, then it is almost certainly a wiring issue. I assume you have the ignition on when trying to communicate with the ECU, as it won’t do it with the ignition off as it does with...

Heater O rings. You touch those hoses in the engine bay, next thing you have coolant on the floor inside.

It’s down and back at the same time, and with a fair bit of force.

I haven’t personally, but you see comments on the various forums with people saying everything from …. lasted a week, couldn’t calibrate them, to ….. lasted a couple of years. What I haven’t seen though is someone saying they got years of trouble free service out of them, like the originals.

Yes they are, you will need to recalibrate them.