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The silver Hella unit and red relay are the correct ones for your car. You can fit the later one, you will need the later plug, de-pin yours and pin out the new one. Generally the Hella ones work a little more accurately than the later ones, i.e. better at keeping the set speed.

+1 on the Audi core. Nissens 70230 is the one to use.

Universal joint.

My GEMS runs around 86 on the highway, 88 around town and gets up to around 95 if sitting in traffic on a hot day and high humidity.

GEMS gauge = AMR1425 early, AMR5929 late, ECU = ETC8496 Bosh = MEK100160 As for the difference, there I can't help.

GEMS has a sensor for the ECU and another for the gauge, Bosch makes do with one for both.

There are only three pumps worth the time and effort to fit. 1). Airtex 2). Airtex And if you can get one of these two, then 3). Airtex.

Someone may have mentioned this, but I think you will find it is a blown rectifier in the alternator, allowing current to drain back via the alternator when it isn’t running. Pretty standard symptoms.

Nothing wrong with those.

Putting a fuse in slot 11 will neutralize the transfer box.

Nissens 70230 is the core you need. It is an excellent conversion dispensing with all of the O ring drama.

To check the VC without going in there, jack up the RHS front wheel, put the transfer box and transmission in neutral, fit your wheel brace or a breaker bar with 27mm socket. Lean on the bar and the wheel should rotate very slowly. It takes a fir amount of force. If it does move slowly, then the...

If the car concerned is the one in your avatar, you have a very rare vehicle. If it was me, I’d be looking for a 2 litre engine and putting it back to original spec. Each to his own. Having had 28 Landrovers, I can say that the 2.25 petrol has adequate power for that truck, it will happily sit...

Try vintage wiring harnesses in Australia. Excellent quality, made to original specs.

I can speak from a little experience on the issue. You can never assume what you have is what was generally sold into a specific market. I have two Australian delivered cars, both of which are 315Mhz, whereas everyone will “tell” you that Australia is 433Mhz.

I don’t suppose it is a 315Mhz receiver?

You have a dodgy battery then Henry.

What I used to do with mine, for heavy fording and general wet use was: Pull off the plug leads, fill the plug ends with silicone and push them back onto the plugs. Pull the leads out of the distributor, fill the lead seats and the lead caps with silicon, and put them back. Take off the...

….or just use one of the multitude of other RR forums.

A couple of comments. Firstly the radiator you have has lasted 13 years. Mileage is not relevant as the lifetime of the unit is dependent on the quality of the coolant used and it maintenance. Secondly, Nissens is an excellent brand.