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As for the seatbelt chime, look in the ETSM and see if the switch is NO or NC. Depending on which either just disconnect it, or short it.

Perhaps a decline in the quality of their product? I used to always use Bearmach, but in the last couple of years I had trouble with the quality, part not fitting, manufactured incorrectly etc. The last one was a flexible steering shaft for the P38. The spline for the steering column end was the...

Undo the little screw at the front of the knob and remove the knob. This will then allow you to push the catch easily and get you out of trouble. Then hunt on eBay or wreckers for a new knob.

The heater plugs in these engines are wired in series. If one plug goes out, none work. This might be your problem.

Air conditioning grant simply refers to whether the ECU has engaged the AC. If you have the AC off then the grant will be off, and vice versa.

The one with the best reputation is East Coast 4x4 in Essex. Not actually Croydon I know, but a very good dealer with plenty of stock.

I converted my display to LED. Looks great, except for the message centre as you say. I took them out and put standard globes back in. The combination works well for me.

+1 on the above. Your issue is almost certainly spark. I suspect someone has fitted a ballast resistor, but the car still has a 12V coil. Change it for a 7V coil or remove the ballast resistor and all will be well.

You need to go through the wiring with a fine tooth comb. I know of another, not dissimilar issue recently and after a week of searching it was tracked down to a bad connection with an under bonnet plug. Plug fixed, no more problem.

Get a HD one off of Ashcrofts. Not at all dear.

Speaking from experience, if going for coils, use standard ride height ones. They will do whatever you need, unless your truck is a dedicated off roader. Going for the 2” lift option will give a harsh ride on the road. I have two P38s, one on air and the other on standard height coils, there is...

What engine do you have? What compression ratio? There are things you can do that will give you a good power and torque increase without much outlay, if you are starting with the right base engine.

Given that it revs OK with no load and bogs down with load, I’d suspect the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, or fuel filter. By the way, did you re-set the adaptive values after fitting the new IACV? If not, that might be your problem.

Ummm ….. model, engine type, history????

I’m afraid I have no idea what you are talking about! Never heard of him/her/it/they/them!

As it came apart on the floor, with no real strain on it, it should be fine. Take the TC off the engine and re-install on the transmission. It may have shims or washers between the flex plate and the TC, these will need to go back in place when you bolt it up in the car. If you look at the oil...

If the Check Engine Light isn’t illuminating, then the ECU and BECM have fallen out of sync. It is nothing to do with RF filters and the like as they are hard wired together. When you turn on the key, the BECM sends a code to the ECU. If it is the code the ECU expects to see, it powers up and...

Being a GEMS, something to check. When you turn on the ignition, does the Check Engine Light come on? If it doesn't then the ECU and BECM have fallen out of sync and no amount of fiddling will get it going until you get them synced up again. A Syncmate or nanocom will be required. If it does...

If it is the one on the top row of push button switches, then it should light up when pressed in to show that the cruise is available. It doesn't light or extinguish when cruise is or isn't engaged.

There are two brake switches and both have to be right. There is the vacuum one that dumps the vacuum for the CC and there is the one for the brake lights. Both interact to cancel the cruise control and both have to mounted correctly. They quite often break one of the mounting lugs. I had...