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Well mates, the time flies by so fast, Jan 20th 2019 will make it 4 years since I bought this Landy, drove it to my garage to be rebuilt. After spending tens of thousands here along of importing parts and accessories from the UK, I have done a bit since then, this includes tons of accessories...

Hope you were good all year LOL

Look up Epman Catch Can, its Italian made. Sells all over including Amazon UK Click on the sentence above this one, I have it linked there. Cheers .

He only started building his engine last year give him some time LOL, I started mine over 3 years ago :eek:) but that's because it is customized, a lot of machining and painting plus I am rebuilding my Landy from top to bottom. Anyway, on topic with breather, I do not like the idea of sending...

The old one you have matches mine. Its not difficult at all if you know how to use a digital multi-meter with continuity.

From my 1997 110 hard top. The positioning on the switch might be different but here is a chart I made up with the color codes which in theory should be the same. .

True.

Completely agree James, they do not make parts with the same quality as they did before, original, OEM or not. How many parts for LR are actually made in the UK now? Its for the same reason I will see posts about parts in the blue box being the same as whats in an original packaging and that...

Kwakerman, I agree, but thats my obsession with making everything perfect and worry free...same reason my projects ends up costing a fortune and taking so much time lol. Maybe I do have a touch of OCD as my pals say :) I do have some great quality gauges to install, two of which are oil...

Hi Mates, I have done a good assessment of the oil rotor assembly (checked out and within spec) which I cleaned and reinstalled on my newly rebuilt engine, however it would have had 165,000 miles on it and I am seriously thinking of replacing it. I have not installed the timing case as yet so...

Sounds good but use some blue locktite still for assurance, not much just a drop or two.

No problem at all, that's what the LZ forums are for..helping each other out and this is one of, if not the best Landy Forums because of some of the guys here. Thats awesome getting new pipes, dont over tighten them, especially the oil feed pipe and to be on the safe side, you can use some blue...

It would have been way better and easier if you had removed the drain tube from the block, installed it onto the turbine first then installed the tube onto the block.

Less restricted air flow in and less restricted exhaust gases out will always be best for performance, thats why race cars and performance cars are always loud as they have no resonators nor exhaust silencers/mufflers. Car enthusiasts and race car owners go to great lengths to facilitate this...

Grab a can of brake or carb cleaner to clean the inside of both the oil feed and oil drain tubes before installation. Prime the turbo with oil first before start up, the turbo re-builders might have done it before but better to do it for assurance.

Its 27mm

Depending on how many times the head is skimmed you might need to go with a thicker head gasket to compensate for the reduced head thickness. I went with the thickest gasket (Victor Reinz) which has no holes, this will lower the compression ratio and which is better for increased boost pressure...

Thanks James. I am scratching my head over this one. I have rebuilt the most of the engine over a year now and now getting back to it. I went with my own turbo and manifold arrangement, had to machine turbo adapter flanges and a host of other things which took time, so I lost memory on where...

Could it be part #18 in the manual.. spacer for idler pulley?