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Yes Yes Yes Fill up until the fluid starts to weep out on level ground, then you are guaranteed of a total fill, The gearbox filler plug is a 1/2 square male and the transfer box and diffs are a 1/2 square female I use a normal 1/2 drive bar or ratchet for these, the drains from memory so could...

Yep your battery is flat or starter is fubar, or dead spot on commentator,, If you bridge across the two nut terminals with heavy gauge wire the starter should spin if there is enough voltage, It won’t turn the engine over because the solinoid hasn’t engaged the bendix, The clicking you hear is...

Wellcome but you should have kept the 200tdi Discovery :rolleyes: IMO Much easier to keep on the Road, Wellcome to the Lunyzone,

I would say you can’t, the earlier axle CV joint is totally different, for all the messing about I would buy a pair of new ball kits for the axle you want to use,

And welcome to the lunyzone :)

I use Gates whenever possible as they supply many manufacturers their OE belts,

Yes that would have been handy at the time, mine had corroded just where the wire goes to the pins, My repair is better than the original socket and will see me out :)

Probably not much help but I needed the rear cable from the pads to the wiring loom in front of the fuel tank, Priced up at £85 :mad: So I shortened the wiring going into the plug, ( at the pad end) drilled out the corroded pins and replaced with Gold plated pins, spliced an extra piece of...

Until Khan moves the goalposts again, I brought a motor home10 years back and made sure it conformed to the Emissions zone, but now it doesn’t including my Discovery mk1, why the new Zone should treat vehicles retrospectively is beyond me except as a way of earning revenue, Money making exercise...

If the noise increase when you put a left lock on it usually means a wheel bearing on the offside needs looking at, Quite simply one wheel is going slower than the other in a turn so is quieter than the other going faster with more load on it,

Probably Wheel bearings, but could be diff bearings , as you drive straight does the noise increase and decrease when you go lock to lock ? If it does it’s most likely wheel bearings if not more likely diff bearings, Check oil in diff and hubs for contamination first, Lynall beat me too it:)

One word of advice is make sure your alternator is disconnected and or Battery before welding as It will destroy the diodes and be an extra expense, Good luck with the job and worth buying a couple of cheap 4 inch grinders so you haven’t got to keep changing from Cutting to grinding then to wire...

That’s a lot of dosh ! Now a good time to buy a mig welder and a bit of kit and get stuck in, All the panels can be replace or repaired, a great learning experience for you :) It’s not that difficult once you bite the bullet,

Yes there are gubbins under the sender unit, but if you take off the feed to the lift pump and attach a piece of pipe Hung lower than the tank it should siphon through slowly, but you should be able to drain the tank, You may have to give it a suck to start it off,

Yes that’s the one but check the flange for wear, if it is then not expensive to replace,

Transfer box to front prop shaft oil seal, usually the flange gets a groove in it and the seal gets hard over time, Worth replacing both, not a difficult job to do,

If spotted by the tester it would be a fail, I would weld it properly, take back door off, it’s heavy but simple to remove, Take out carpet and underlay that side, unbolt seatbelt inertia reel and B pillar trim and it’s quite accessible, You may have to remove the plastic outer sill to give you...

Nope it shouldn’t make any difference, just so long as it is suitably clipped ( anchored) down)

Explain cold weld? It is structural and would to be welded Mig/gas to effect a good repair, Check the drain hole is clear, repair panels are available and is probably the easiest way to go,

Done something similar to mine, captive nuts held with two normal rivets, cheaper than a rivnut gun and bits,