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If both went off simultaneously then likely to be the multi function switch, if only one went off I would check the connection to that bulb,

That’s the main reason for using three pipes simultaneously to bleed the front callipers, Pleased its now sorted :)

The servo won’t make any difference so you can discount that, the pressure reduction valve can stick shut but that would still give you good brakes for the front, have you the two pipe three nipples callipers? If you have I have found the easiest way to bleed them is with two T pieces and a bit...

If it’s a Discovery fuel tank it’s a large rubber O ring that the sender unit fits through, pretty certain you couldn’t leave it out or the sender unit would flop about, It won’t have a intank fuel pump fitted , its not needed, but the return pipe feed from the Injection pump could be your fuel...

Get the engine hot before attempting removal,

Yes sorry I meant sedimenter but a similar device in aviation is called a gascolator a term I use more frequently, I fitted a new lift pump ( Delphi) and had the Injection pump and injectors overhauled by , http://dieselbob.co.uk/index.aspx You can try a few bottles of Forte injection cleaner...

Yes I believe it had contaminated the whole system unfortunately, I cleaned Gasilator with acetone and replaced the sender unit in the tank and flushed through with petrol so decided to get the pump overhauled, With the new pump and injectors it runs as good as it ever did, 70mph all day long...

Hi my D1 had stood for 10 years so quite a bit longer than yours, remarkable it started more or less first turn With a new battery and was drivable albeit not above 2000 rpm, Done all the usual stuff, new fuel filter/ gascolator clean out/ new fuel/ new fuel pump and clean out the tank and fuel...

I ended up sending my pump and injectors to Diesel Bob, tried all sorts to get her to Rev above 2000rpm But eventually gave up and sent it away, The only stuff that seems to move the brown sludge is acetone, dodgy stuff

To be honest any grease gun will do, but I would also get a flexible hose to fit the gun, If you then remove the end nozzle screw in the flexible hose putting the nozzle on you will reach the nipples without to much trouble, Sometimes the nozzles are slightly too large to fit between the UJ so...

More likely a timing issue, recheck pump timing and go over the tappets clearance,

This gives you the expected oil pressure you should be seeing, and you should be using 15/40w Semi synthetic oil

It could well be the oil pressure relief valve sticking open slightly, but as others have said a mechanical oil pressure gauge will tell you exactly what’s going on, I would drain the oil and put some flushing oil ( highly detergent) through and run up to temperature, it will help to clear the...

As has been said check the real temperature you are getting with a laser temp gun, but on the early MK1 you have A voltage resistor on the back of the instrument panel that drops the voltage to 9 volts, This is so whatever the voltage main battery has the gauges only see 9 volts so are accurate...

Early white was saverin then it became Alpine white, same paint shade so you could use ether,

Or a smear of plumbers mate,

The obvious conclusion is the valve timing is way out or the cam belt adjuster has slipped causing Valve contact with the pistons ,not knowing your engine but guessing it’s a 200tdi/ 300tdi ?

Could just be a sticky thermostat, check the simple stuff first,

Way too much work for little gain IMO, a single DIN unit will give you all the music you need, You can always extend the wiring to the fan control unit and likewise get longer cables but then you are going To mount the whole gubbins remotely somewhere, and it won’t look pretty,

Good point but not necessarily correct, with a full tank of fuel the fuel return pipe will be under more pressure to return the fuel to the tank so would likely leak, ( if corroded) whereas if the fuel level was low it would flow much easier with less pressure build up, But it’s all fairly...