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Yes the early Discovery mk1 200tdi came with the same setup brake wise as the classic range rover, I think it was 1994 they went over to the single line,

this should take you through it,

It’s not a difficult job, remove prop, remove flange and check flange for wear, replace if necessary, Replace seal, refit flange and prop,

If it’s a early discovery upto 94 they have a resistor on the back of the instrument panel to keep the temp and fuel gauges accurate regardless of the battery state, so probably that, not sure what’s fitted on the later type,

I’m slowly rebuilding my Discovery 200tdi, decided to replace front springs and shock absorbers using Galvanise turrets and mounts, all went very well but that’s me done for the day, probably give the chassis another splodge of under seal tomorrow,

Wellcome to the lunyzone, if you do a search on the Discovery section you should find what you are looking for, You also need to be clear what seals you want to replace, door to door frame or door window to door channel,

As long as you still have vacuum for the servo then you are probably ok, The early discovery had a vacuum feed for the air recirculating valve on the heater so probably that If it’s the same,

Actually never, occasionally you can get a blowback but never leave your face anywhere near the carb, 50 years in the motor trade and I still have all my bits ;) so must have done something right,

A good dodge on a partially blocked carburettor jet is remove air inlet pipe and start engine Rev it up at the same time block inlet to carb with your palm, the suction created will often clear The obstruction,

No the brake master just bolts straight to the servo unit so doesn’t need adjustment, The clutch master has the concentric adjustment, very easy to adjust, just rotate the through bolt Until it’s in line with the brake pedal,

Then another good bleed with new fluid ( don’t use the old) start with rear n/ s then rear O/s Followed by n/s front then lastly o/s front, use the three pipes for the front and it should be good, New pads until bedded in will also make the pedal softer, The reason you don’t reused fluid even if...

Could well be the master cylinder, I know it’s new but could still be faulty, when you pump the pedal when bleeding Are you getting a good amount of fluid with each pump? If not then it’s likely the Master cylinder is faulty, I would only use genuine or OE for brake parts, I take it you have no...

It will go a bit spongy when engine is running, it’s the servo doing its job, it’s best to bleed the front callipers by using a bleed pipe with three connections, basically bleed all nipples on the calliper at once, that way you are more certain to get all the air are out, I also replaced all my...

If you mean the injection pump it’s probably the stepper motor for the throttle, I assume you don’t have a throttle cable?

Or roof box,

If you come up with a solution I would be interested in your findings,

this is it

Correct, I have the same problem with mine, there is a you tube video of a guy removing the metals strips And refitted just the rubbers, it finished looking way better than they started,

Decided to fit a Prc7925 water level sensor to my expansion tank on my Discovery 200tdi You also need a mini relay (ISM12T) with a small buzzer, I wired to the redundant high temperature gearbox light So it’s all integrated ,

That would be mxc5903 Rh and mxc5904 waist seal, unfortunately they are no longer available but do very little anyway, any water on the side windows will drop down into the doors and drain away, always check if your door drains are clear,