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For my chassis, I only recall the bolt-on option for it. They actually forgot to drop it off with the chassis, but a phone call to them sorted that out and it arrived in the post a couple of days later. I recall it wasn't the most simple thing to fit (required some force to get all 4 bolts in)...

You get a greater vacuum at low throttle positions (light loads). When you boot it, the throttle opens to let more air in, and the vacuum drops. So the 'vacuum advance' provides less advance at high loads, but it's still an advance rather than a retard, if that makes sense. With an ECU, you can...

Now, *that* is neat. That could well have saved me quite a bit of time if I'd thought of that.

Judging by the way he was scraping his shiny allow around on the concrete, he wasn't particularly bothered about damaging the rim edge! That really made me cringe. :eek: The one thing he did that might have been useful was to put the soapy water around the bead before trying to remove it. I...

OK, you are specifically talking about the dizzy being 180 degrees out, then. I'd have described that as the ignition being 360 degrees out, given the 4-stroke cycle is 720 degrees. Not sure which interpretation @Landy1979 meant, but the result will be the same - engine wouldn't run at all. :D

Hmmm. Are you sure about that? Given TDC is a crank-thing and it's measured on the crank shaft pulley, I always thought angles with respect to TDC were angles on the crankshaft, not the camshaft/dizzy. So 180 degrees out would be half a crank rotation, and a quarter of a cam/rotor arm rotation...

You might be able to get away with finding a thick head gasket from somewhere. I think they can be cut from copper sheet, but never tried it or know anyone that has. Might not be terribly cheap, either....but hopefully cheaper than a replacement head.

It wouldn't run at all if it was 180 degrees out...you'd be firing at the bottom of the stroke, when the mixture isn't compressed, so won't really do anything. You might get a backfire if the mixture ignites as the exhaust valve starts to open. You could check the accuracy of the pulley notch by...

True, although a less-aggressive cam profile can avoid that. I'm assuming Landy cams aren't particularly 'hot', in which case the valves might be firmly closed towards the top of the stroke. Was the replacement head gasket thinner than the one it replaced? That's another reason the CR may have...

There's a limit. Otherwise, you'd just keep skimming and skimming and getting more and more power... The Landy engine is deliberately lower compression so it can run on almost any fuel without problems and less fussy about having the timing spot-on.

I was thinking about this some more. This might be a bit farfetched on a Landy engine, but do check the compression. On 'performance' engines, if the head is skimmed, it can increase the compression too far and you get pinking if the fuel octane rating isn't high enough. You mentioned this...

Checking TDC is correct, is well worthwhile. When I was getting my engine running after swapping the distributor, I was struggling to get the engine to run much faster than idle, even with the throttle wide open. Engine was getting very warm but wasn't going to have enough power to pull the skin...

I assume you want to add them with a proper split-charging relay and run your lights just off the second battery, rather than simply putting them in parallel to increase the capacity. Do you really want to permanently wire it in, or maybe have it in a portable box that fits and plugs into...

Curious. Given I have several holes/drains in the chassis, I can't see it'll stay dry inside if submerged. Maybe it will fill up slowly enough (or have a bubble in it) that a carefully positioned open end won't take in water. Not sure I'll risk that, though. Your chassis might be designed to...

I've not done it personally, but I've seen photos of my car with water over the top of the bonnet. And there was mud *everywhere* when I took it apart. But I can't remember where the rear axle breather was when I removed it. An unfortunate gap in my notes. But I did figure getting the vent into...

But at least of you remove the stick, you could bend it another inch or so, without risking damaging the selector mechanism...

That's perhaps a more sensible option to allow the terminals to still be used. But I don't have anything to plug in there, anyway. A cigarette socket is a lot more useful...and even more useful when a USB adapter is plugged into it.

By the way, am I the only person slightly worried about having an unfused, unprotected 12V supply on the dash, very close to an earth point (the 'test' terminals)? I have left the earth connection there connected, but decided not to wire up the +ve supply, but have a fused supply to a (covered)...

Yeah, I'd go along with that. I recall several other lamps (instrument illumination, main beam, charge lamp, etc) also earth to the same place, and I also ran a good earth from there to the bulkhead to make sure it really was a good earth.

The stick on mine is certainly further forwards in reverse than it is in 1st and 3rd (so I think that is normal), but doesn't quite touch the dash. I've got a radio fitted below the dash, and the lever moves around it. I don't know if the PO was very careful about where it placed it, or he was...