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That was the approach I used - tighten them right at the end when everything else had been fitted - just don't forget! My thinking was that the bushes should be 'relaxed' in the normal position/state the vehicle will be in. Very difficult to achieve with straps, and loading up more than usual...

This is the thread: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rear-axle-alignment-problem.366965/ It was actually the rear axle that was the problem, not the front. Almost certainly irrelevant to your problem, but does show simple mistakes can be made...

Scratch that - I think I'm talking bo11ox. I've just been out to look at mine, and the rear springs are waaaaay longer, (over a metre long), so I don't think you could have mixed them up. Which baffles me as I'm sure someone said they had, a while ago. I'll have a look and see if I can find the...

I was going to say that loading the vehicle to get the suspension to move so that the old prop shaft can be made to fit, isn't really a solution. When you drive and the suspension needs to move as intended, it's going to rip something out of the gearbox and/or diff. I'd really look at why the...

No, but it suggests something is trying to draw current (have you got the lights switched on), and the jump lead is completing the circuit between the battery and chassis that should already be made by the main battery cables. I suggest you check the negative battery cable, and where it goes to...

Definitely check where your TDC actually is. I had a similar problem and it turned out the mark on my pulley was about 30 degrees out from where it should have been. I guess the pulley just came from a different engine or something. A thin stick down number 1 plug hole, while rocking the engine...

I'd suggest you've got the pipes attached to the cylinders the wrong way around. If you feed the supply into the lower port, then air bubbles in the system will rise and be flushed out of the upper port more easily. The pipe between the cylinders should still be the right length when you move it...

I'm ashamed to admit that when one of my nozzles got blocked many years ago, I fixed it my cutting the hose where I could see it under the dash, and running a new length of hose out through the vent, to a new nozzle that I had taped to the blocked one. A dreadful bodge, but good enough to get...

Is that true for all series 3 chassis? My old 1979 chassis didn't have the seam....does that mean it wasn't an original chassis?

Yeah, as @kermit_rr says, you need to have the +ve supply hooked in to the bulb circuit, too. But beware if you're not entirely sure what you're doing here, as you may well end up shorting out the supply...and if that's a battery, you could burn out the solenoid contacts. You need to the...

The larger terminals for the cables that go to the starter and battery, are just a switch, so won't get any supply from whatever you are using to activate the solenoid. You need a suitable supply in series with the bulb, so that when the solenoid closes, you get a proper circuit.

Mine's SWB, but I'm pretty sure that even at slow speeds, the rear wheels are leaving the ground on some speed bumps. I think the suspension rate is just tuned completely wrongly for speed bumps.

A bit off topic (sorry!) but reminds me of a story from a few years ago. I was driving around the Scottish borders with a friend of mine, in our kit/sports cars. His had a Rover V8 engine, but it was misfiring. Examination revealed the coil was damaged, and we could see it arcing around the HT...

Yeah, I know what you mean. I was looking for a complete 'kit' when I started, but having now gone through the rebuild process, I kind of understand why there isn't. There are just so many, and you might not need to replace them all (although I did as many as I could). How far do you go - do you...

That's a good question. I thought the only connection to ground that the coil needed, was via the points. Certainly won't do any harm to ensure the coil body is earthed, but I'm not entirely sure it's actually needed.

I found LR Direct (https://www.lrdirect.com) to be really quick, efficient and free delivery over £50, but you really need to know the part numbers (although the parts catalogue will solve that one). You get to choose the brand, which means it's easier to avoid Britpart. I had a bit of gripe...

I replaced all axle oil seals and wheel bearings, too. Swivel overhaul kits for front axle? Set of brake shoes? I also refreshed all bushes with poly bushes, but I think the opinion on here is that regular rubber bushes (if you can find good quality rubber ones) would generally be better and...

Mine is an 88, so possibly totally irrelevant, but.... ...that would be where the under-driver-seat fuel tank would fit on mine. Are you sure there are no holes in it at all? Mine had 3 holes in the lower edge, which the tank bolts to. I assume on a 109 that your tank is further back, in...

Does it not light at all, or just not turn off when the engine starts? I assume the former, if you've not yet replaced the fuse.