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Hmmm. I got *a* rotor arm...

Yes, new coil, too. Although I didn't check how warm it was getting...

Not according to my definition of 'proper'. I sure hope so!

Thanks for the suggestions. I neglected to add that I'm running electronic ignition, so shouldn't be a condensor/points/dwell issue. I did wonder whether the dizzy was loose, and had moved (was the first thing I checked when I first stopped), but it was all good, and if it had moved, it...

Been out for the longest run in the Landy today, since it's been back together. Unfortunately, I had a few running issues that I think are carb (Weber) related, but I'm not entirely sure...and I suspect actually at least 2 separate problems. Firstly, when letting it drop back to idle, it's...

Have I got this right....you connected 4 depleted (non-rechargeable) AA batteries together, and stuck 12V across them, with no current limiting? Oh dear... :eek:

Ah yes, the inner edge on mine had corroded away, too. Yours looked like it was in much better condition than mine, so I thought it might still be there. I cut a strip of aluminium with a tab on it. and bent it to fit inside the curve of the wing, just riveted in place. Some (not very good)...

The hole in the wing should be obvious, and I guess you should have one at the edge of the floor, that will line up. Not sure about that photo - my chassis doesn't look like that. My spring fixings are in line with the chassis beam rather than being stuck out to the side like that. I recall the...

I think the shorter two pairs are correct as you have shown, but I'm pretty sure the longer/rear-most pair (your first photo) isn't quite right. I don't have any photos to hand at the moment, but mine are rotated 90 degrees to the angles you've shown, so they run across the width of the...

Yeah, I'm not surprised it was a cost thing. It just seems an obvious weakness, IMHO.

The thing that surprised me when I got my Landy, was that the diffs are completely open. I was expecting limited slip diffs to have been fitted. It seems a bit of a weakness to me that if you're on a ridge and end up with two diagonal wheels off the ground, you can lose the ability to get any...

I was going to add a vote for a set of these. They were invaluable to me, trying to undo so many corroded/damaged nuts and bolts on my Landy. Most ended up shearing off, but at least I got them off! I also found a speed brace quite useful for quickly running long bolts in, or nuts up long...

...although if you cut down a zinc plated bolt, the cut end will no longer be plated, and so will likely rust. I avoided cutting down screws and bolts as much as possible. ebay has some very useful suppliers of most sizes needed, although there are a few specials, of course.

Ah, that's possible. My apologies. I know they listed S3 and Defender, but I didn't check they went back any further than that. Sorry...

I found https://www.lrworkshop.com/ to be a very valuable resource in finding alternative part numbers, etc. It's well worth registering.

That's quite likely that the wire belongs to the stalk. Would explain a lot. You could also have tested it with a 12v bulb, of course (with the battery temporarily reconnected), but really need to be careful not to short anything. A proper meter is a lot safer...and generally a pretty useful tool.

Brown is usually unfused, unswitched 12V. Be careful of that lose wire...it could be connected directly to the battery, which will be bad news if it touches the bodywork. Do you have a multimeter you could use to check whether it's live or not? The end of the insulation looks blackened...is it...

...although removal might also be a bit tricky if the glue is strong... I used regular countersunk screws, part number AC606041L according to the parts catalogue. I'm pretty sure screwing them down hard enough buried the screw heads deeply enough in the 'cloth' for them to clear the glass...

If you need to realign the camshaft and the chain is off, you probably want to back the crankshaft up by 90 degrees, and then it will be safe to rotate the camshaft into the correct position. Lock it in place, and then turn the crank back up to TDC. But you need to be really sure the valves are...

It does sound like you're at the end of the exhaust stroke, not the compression stroke.