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Yeah that would be a good way to do it Rob. Will grab some snaps when I next get chance, on to nights for a couple of days now. I will put the cam belt changers marks in line, then move it to the proper 'safe' marks. I called that local landy shop and he said he does stock a cam position sensor...

Cheers alibro, looks like I'm in for a bit of a strip down then! Was hoping it would be an easy one. It does feel fairly nippy, more than I expected. And even more so with the intake removed! Wondering about doing something about that, free flowing filter or something? Maybe my filter is just...

Ok will check again at some point. However whoever did the belt last two med it to the tdc mark and made their own tippex timing marks, which also all lined up perfectly. However the economy and performance would be nice. I haven't driven another 1.8 so not sure what a good one drives like!

I didn't take the pulley off but the cams were aligned perfectly and I could see the mark on the crank pulley was at 12oclock, couldn't quite see the marks for the crank. Had better re visit then! Edit: how can you get it half a tooth out? And if it is half a tooth out, how can you resolve it!?

Just checked the cam timing. All looks good. Still getting the error codes. Is it time to throw a new sensor at it now?

You think cam timing is looking favourite then? Hopefully! It's a nice cheap easy (relatively) fix! On second thoughts, since I don't know the status of the belt, I guess I may as well change it while I'm there...?

Hmmm, vague but definitely indicates I have a problem... A brief list; Check cam timing, Maybe run some injector cleaner? Replace cam sensor Burn it...

Well I ran the codes again today and the power train fuel trim, and the crankshaft position sensor are both faulting still. Looks like I may have a positive find! Will check cam timing as the sensor fault I suppose could be that. No idea what the power train thing is??

Yeah checked the plugs and re gapped them. They looked fine. As I say those codes appeared as a result of me stalling it... At least I think I stalled it, I guess it could have just cut out as I was manoeuvring...? The faults haven't returned though.. The cam timing isn't a bad shout, the...

Got one of those Bluetooth OBD2 jobbies plugged in, a small myriad of faults which I'm guessing was the cause of the EML being on. Cleared them and none have come back. Will plug back in after the commute tomorrow and see if any have returned...

Hmmm, joy.. I presume bottom brackets at max extension to point the top in..

Fitted the new regulator today, all went well. However, when closing the door, the glass misses the groove that it should raise up into. It either hits right on the edge of the groove, or misses completely and the window raises on the outside of the trim. I have messed about with the adjustment...

Good point well made Fritz!... And I know the wiring from the switch to the motor is fine.. Could do with borrowing a control panel to troubleshoot!

Yeah, all must be correct there then. Does the purge valve have any sort of vent or anything? Fuel wise, it's done about 140miles on half a tank so far. Will run it till the light comes on and fill it again for more accuracy.

That lives in the rear wheel arch if I am correct? I can't see any open pipes/hoses, are there dedicated hoses running through the bay to it? Cheers

Had the plugs out, out if interest. They all looked the nice creamy/brown sort of colour, checked the gaps which were too small so adjusted. Still getting the petrol smell pretty strong when I come to a stop, does it even just after starting up. Open the bonnet and I can't see anything, the...

Had a faff, can't find another red power supply input to the switch..,

Also. Incase this helps anyone in the future.. Unplugging the window motor allows the door latch to operate, you can then jiggle the window past the seal to open the door.

Front RH window switch is the only unavailable part! Doh! Haha Yeah I need to check for power to the switch first, need to work out which pins are the power supply. Looks like a black and red input and a blue and red output.. don't remember seeing two red? Also missing from that drawing, and...

Well I got it from a land rover servicing place. He said there is a black, blue or brown one. I had black fitted so got a black.. no good it seems. Edit: wonder if it could be a fail on fit? It is a britpart one...