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Yep, your right...my bad too :oops:

OP said '06 to '08 (unless i'm missing something). So that would be 2.7 TDV6 if diesel. Still, agree the 4.2SC is the one to go for IMO

Here you go. :D http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/auto-gearbox-cooler-britpart-esr2276-p-624.html

Many of the original body off jobs now seem to have a work-around to avoid - turbos, cam belts etc. I thought briefly about an RRS but got a D3 for more practical reasons. PS, the RRS / D3 TDV6's have more power than FFRR TD6's.;) Sadly, this site doesn't tend to draw in RRS / D3 owners so much...

The 2.7V6 is a pretty good performing engine (for a diesel). Factor in £700+ for cam belt replacement - should be done at 7 years or 105,000. Original oil pump belt tensioner can fail so needs the upgraded pump fitting & there does seem to be a number of crank failures. Personally with that...

I hate so say but for once the britpart cooler is pretty good quality. I'm guessing this is the one for £94 +vat (about what i paid for mine). Island can be hit & miss with parts quailty & rectification in my experience.

Should be a straightforward swap, I guess your putting your 4.6 crank, pistons, rods, cam into the 4.0 once top hatted. Being both gems the CPS will be the same mounting (different on thor). :) The 4.0 blocks are supposedly the weaker of the blocks selected but it's a lottery with Rover V8's...

Too small, that wouldn't cool a cup of tea, & cant see how your pipework will connect to it.

The top pipe is to the engine oil cooler. Just below that is your transmission cooler (the bottom pipe in the second image). I'd use a proper penetrating oil rather than WD40 (Its a water displacent). Otherwise they have a tendency to strip the thread off the aluminium cooler & you get aluminium...

Yep, mine started leaking suddenly. Would be dripping from the bottom of the lower rad guard & sprayed all over the place by the fan even covering the EAS receiver / dryer. Bought a second had cooler that also leaked from the same place so bit the bullet & got a new one. Those connections look...

Yep, sounds like the transmission cooler, just under the engine oil cooler in front of the rad. Take off the slam panel, unbolt the aircon condenser & pull forward. You should see red fluid on the cooler - usually around where the channels meet the side sections. Be careful with the connections...

Compression test should show consistent lower figures on 2 cylinders if HG has blown between the 2 - so between 2 & 4 if my reading of this is correct. In this case you wont loose coolant. Good luck, that bank is a pig to change head gasket.:(

If it's all running fine i'd keep it. I don't regret selling mine as another major investment I just couldnt justify, but do miss the comforts compared with the Disco 3 (i do really miss the armrests). Sports are of course much more luxurious but less practical. Now a guy in our village has just...

I feel your pain. What was the cause of overheating? Sorry, just helps others the more info is posted on here.;)

What was the problem?

The coolant will get into the cylinder after the engine is shut down as it's still under pressure. With it being a middle cylinder my bet would be a cracked block behind the liner. My top hat block had a similar issue. I suspect mine cracked between the head bolt hole & cylinder.

LOL....has Mozz even got his P38 anymore :eek:

I still have an allmakes maf in the shed (states 'made in china' on it) - was useless. Fitted a Bosch maf & all was well. Mine was a thor though.

Not seen that video before. Typical RPI though.....not so subtely slating Turner engineering & their liners

I feel for you fella. Mine was on it's 3rd engine (top hatted) that also failed. I beleive some loose liners tick some dont. Mine ticked but not all the time, sometimes it would be quiet for days so maybe something to do with a head change that distrubed things in yours enough to hold the liner...