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My 4.6 P38 was touching 190k when we parted, mind you.....it was on the 3rd engine & that was fubar'd

There's no question LPG makes running the V8 bearable if doing the mileage. Jury is still out for me as to the long term effects of running LPG on the RV8. Mine got through 2 engines during the 85k miles i did despite totally renewing the cooling system when i got her & regular servicing of the...

I had a little rust bubbling on the NS rear arch near where the rubbing strip finishes (exactly as the one in the ad). Seen a few like this. Mine was due to a leak from the tailgate seal & water was tracking down the rear quarter panel & settling here. Noticed how bad it was when the rear bumper...

Possibly a slipped liner. If it's a later block with the steps at the bottom the noise can come from the top & bottom as the liner hits both the fire ring on the cylinder head & the step at the bottom of the block, almost like a double tap. Mine did this.

I wouldnt risk re-using. For the price of a new set you dont want to be pulling the heads again.

Thats crazy, mine looked in better shape after 190k miles!

I must admit, i wouldnt have expected LR to honour any failure of an engine with 90k. Mine was a LR replacement & dropped a liner after approx 70k & it never occured to me to pursue LR. Good luck though. It would be a result if they offer anything, but it would still cost you even if they offer...

Only way i could get mine out was to drill it out - used a drill slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the sensor & once the drill grabbed it, it spun it out. Just be careful not to go too far & damage your ring ;) Personally i'd replace with a genuine wabco sensor as i had problems with...

I'm with RAC & must say i havent much to grumble about. I've used them twice with the RR. 1st time the starter motor packed in with no warning, 2nd time mine dumped it's coolant on the M1 back from london. Both times they arranged a flat bed pretty quickly to get me home & kept me updated on...

+2, absolute crap luck! I think you have done the right thing. Buy at the lower end of your budget from i would say the best member on this forum to buy a RR from, & use the rest to fix up the outstanding jobs saint has clearly detailed. Whilst being realistic about what you can / can't do...

+1 Despite the huge amount of time,effort & substantial amounts of cash we can all put into these things they can still fail in a big way & lead to huge frustration. Been there, done that......

You can bolt it in if you dont have a pop rivet gun.

+1 had opticool on mine & it certainly wasnt dark. Sounds like an aftermarket tint.

Had EGR's fail on a previous D3. Just left me with no initial power when pulling away but certainy not a stranded situation.

Ok, just wondered if coolant was getting into the sump & causing the oil level to rise. No idea on L322's tbh but really feel for you!

I've not got the time on the dashboard display, is this easy to do? I have time display on the aftermarket stereo & sat nav screen fitted so hasnt bothered me too much but would be nice. Automatic door locking you say? Mine need the double press on the fob to open all doors but i actually prefer...

Not good, i'd be suprised if 10mm over max would cause all that! Whats the coolant level looking like?

But a clean & polish after o_O;)

I'd agree, may be less stressfull draining from the sump ;) I've not got any diagnostics yet but understand the iid is the one to go for. I also need to re-flash my transfer ECU as i get the clunk on take up. Unbeleivable this is cured with a re-program as it feels mechanical like a stretched...

Yep, think i read part of that on disco3. I'd be a little worried about running the gearbox low on fluid while it empties out. Suppose if you can pump in a similar amount through the cooler to that coming out it would be ok, then finally measuring any difference & topping up etc. I should read...