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If the AT fluid is red it's got the wrong fluid in. I'd get that changed to the proper ZF Lifeguard fluid. I'd get a megaflush done.

Sounds like torque converter. You could get a transmission flush to get some more life out of it but budget for a new TC

Not seen that colour before. Shouldn't it have the facelift tail lights if a 2000 model?

My P38 was the comfiest place to be. I preferred the seating, layout, & general trim finishing on my Vogue SE spec over any L322 or my Discovery. But, as much as i loved the V8. I'd never get another car with a ROVER V8 with 96mm cylinder bores, just madness!

I'd say valvetrain related especially with the running issues. My liner was much more of a tap than a tick. Sometimes a double tap as the liner hit both the HG fire-ring & the bottom lip of the block (although your block wont have the bottom lip). Engine performed well apart from the noise.

The swear jar was always replenished on that one.

My centre box delete made it drone like hell on the motorway & felt it had been underpowered after putting the centre box back on. I still miss that sound though.

Mine was registered May 2002. One of the last off the production line Vogue SE. Most date stamps on parts tended to be Sept '01. Apart from engine a fine example but seems new owner has SORN'ed it so not looking good for the old girl.

Get a kit from Turner engineering, some of the other aftermarket valley gaskets are crap & dont fit / leak. I'd also put some threadlock on your lower intake bolts as mine had a habit of backing off on the outer 4 bolts.

+1, really need to get it on diagnostics. I recently had similar issues & traced to a split in the large intercooler hose, hidden under the outer webbing so not visible without taking the hose off. Now replaced with a silicon hose & all good.

Yep, LCF on the block indicates a later standard LR block casting (i still have my old one in the garage). I had one in my '02 4.6 P38 & it dropped it's liners. I had an earlier WYF block put in with top hats & 4.0l pistons / 4.6 crank but that block cracked within 30k.

Congratulations Ant. Hope everyone is doing well.

Looks like a fair price - especially at this time of year. Check if it had the oil pump upgraded (later style) when the belts were done. They have a habit of the casing cracking, taking out the timing belt tensioner & wrecking the engine. EPB can be troubesome so check it's working ok - no nasty...

+1, if it's the EPB the brake disk drum will be hot after a short drive, if its the calipers then the disk will be hotter.

If the heads & block have been skimmed it will throw it out of alignment with the intake unless you have the inner faces of the heads skimmed to match. I'd also use some threadlock on the bolts as mine always seemed to back out & be loose after a while, especially the rear bolts.

Seems to be many cases of cranks snapping on these engines. I think LR supply replacement / exchange at approx £4.5k + fitting (C£2K at good indy), at least they do for the 2.7TDV6. Not an easy job on these as ideally body has to come off. Depending on service history you may have a case with LR...

I'd be suprised if anyone at a dealers knows what a P38 is let alone competently service one. I recon a decent indy would charge less than £800 for a full service with ALL fluids changed & your airbags fitted. Do it yourself, that way you get to know whats what & anything that needs attention...

Worn cam?

Had a Janspeed cat back system on mine & put a JE Engineering straight through pipe in place of the centre box. It sounded great....until you hit the motorway. Let me tell you, my weekly commute down the length of the M1 wasnt fun with the drone, sounded like a TVR was tailgating me. No power...

Mine kicked in for the 1st time this morning.:) I understood the FBH only warms up the engine coolant to aid cold starts & heat the engine up to reduce emmissions. The interior will only warm up (quickly) once youve started the engine & the HEVAC is in operation.