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I'll have to give this a try, as I really want to check that bolt. Mileage is on 98k now, and I thought if it was going to come off it would have by now, but I see some had 160k odd on theirs when it went. Get someone else to do it.....:D Always a solution!

Thanks gazman. That was kind of what I was thinking. No impact gun. I've already soaked in penetration fluid, so will keep doing that and try again. :)

I need to do mine, but I tried to remove the bolts on the cross member, and the first one snapped, and all the others felt like they would also snap, so it's put on hold at the moment. Any tips for getting around this problem? o_O

What a fantastic thread!! Hats off to you for all the love and work you've put in to that Landy. Just read it all, start to finish. So much useful info and great pics! Excellent!

I removed my switch a few weeks back, disassembled it, cleaned it, resealed and replaced it, and it's been perfect. Don't waste money on a new switch until you've tried this. There are several threads on the net where others have had success just by cleaning and resealing the switch. Cost me...

Replaced gasket earlier today, and as recommend I used sealer on the gasket, top and bottom. Been on a 20 mile run, and all dry. Still a little drip on the bottom of the bell housing though, and I cleaned it all off before hand, but it seems to be less than before, so time will tell. I guess...

To be honest, it's very difficult to feel around with or see much at the back of the engine, but it's definitely a bit wet around there. Seals in place. It's not leaving big puddles on the bell housing, like pictures I've seen of some. I've got a new gasket, and some sealer, so I will strip it...

Thanks. Yeah, the seal is correctly seated, and I used some gasket sealer to hold it in place too. Think I'll remove it, thoroughly clean it and replace with a genuine gasket. I guess the only way to be sure that's where the oil is coming from, is to ensure that's sorted, and the drip stops...

I have a small drip of oil that collects at the bottom of the bell housing. I have recently replaced the rocker/cam cover gasket, but the top part of the back of the engine is still a bit wet, as is the top of the bell housing. On inspecting the inside of the bell housing the back plate on the...

All done. Took most of the afternoon, as for all those who said, they'll need cutting off, well, guess what? You were correct! So what was a simple job turned out to be a bit off a faff! I did it backed up on some ramps, and the ARB never moved, so once the old ones were off it was just a simple...

Ok. Thanks for all the input everyone. Fingers crossed I can get them off and replace without to much trouble now.

Ok, so is it best to get the back off the ground and sit it on axle stands and remove both wheels? Thanks.

Mine does the same over bumps on the odd occasion. It hasn't really bothered me enough to do much about it yet, however it doesn't do it when cornering. I'm reluctant to start messing with the sensors, as I don't want the 3 amigos to pop up!

Thanks Peter. I'll soak them in penetrating fluid all this week, but I've an angle grinder if needed! They don't look to rusty. Thanks for the heads up about the nuts. There's a very good fastening store nearby, so I can take the new links in, and they'll definitely have the nuts to fit them.

Brilliant. Thanks. I'll either reverse it up on to ramps then, or just raise the suspension to off road. I've ordered some OEM quality drop links, so that'll be a job for the weekend.

Hi. Need to replace the rear drop links as they are worn, and N/S one is clunking. I've done them once or twice on other vehicles, but with the ACE and things I was just wondering how to go about it. Can I do it with the car on the ground or on ramps, or do I need to support anything before...

It's definitely a fiddly job, and I wouldn't recommend removing it if that's not the issue. As I say, I had the occasional MS lights, so a bit different.

I had this problem with no N light or display on the dash, but I was getting the M & S lights as well. I removed the switch and took it apart, cleaned all the connections, resealed and replaced it, then adjusted it with a helper moving the gear leaver through all the gears until all the lights...

Thanks. Done a few bits and bobs on him now. The more I do, the more I learn. Fitted some 8" spot lamps today. Next job is the front oil seal on the transfer box, as I noticed it was weeping a bit.

Well, that's what I was trying to confirm, but yes. I managed to remove the xyz switch in the end. Removed it from the metal bracket first, then it was quite easy to pull the grey plug apart. Once removed from the car, I drilled out the rivets, disconnected all the wires inside the switch, and...