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Brilliant..... But be careful locating earths using the light in this manner as you might find an earth that is actually a signal earth from a sensor. This would create some rather weird effects if you connected them wrongly e.g. using an earth you find behind the dash that is actually the...

You need both diodes before it works as they stop the flow of current in each direction. Add the other one and it should be fine. Let me know

Sorry I missed the notification. I'll give it a miss this time. Had you been nearer and I could have collected then the £12.50 wouldn't have been quite so significant on top of the £35. I've got it's MOT at the end of the month so need to make sure I have enough for everything with that.

Im interested in the clutch pedal. Where are you?/what would the postage be?

Just found this thread and realised I hadn't added a conclusion. Well the damper has been on for more than a couple of months and it's helped the stability I would say. The pan hard rod bushes were done at the same time so I can't be sure they haven't changed things as well but they were worn...

Are you talking about a different circumference of tyre as a spare? If so then I wouldn't risk it as you are likely to destroy the diff!

If you are changing the sender and relying on the standard gauge make sure that it's body is grounded. It shows the correct temp relative to a fixed ground which it normally gets through the body of the gauge

Ok. One of the images looked like it was of a fan speed control. No worries, it's that one which I'm needing but had you had both I would have had the other anyway.

I'll have the fan speed control off you please.. actually I'll have both controls.

If you wired it like I said then you wouldn't need to as it's only switching the starter battery OR locking them together. The vital equipment will still get power.

You could add one if you needed to but I'm not aware of one.

An isolator is quite easy really. I've found a pair of brilliant ones on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221632891109?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT They also do this one...

No you can push it through (so long as you have a very sharp pointed probe). I normally then just rub the wire and you can't see the hole but a tiny piece of insulation tape will sort. Don't do this unless you have to but sometimes needs must. I'm working on a few ideas for new tutorials...

People will argue that a multimeter is better BUT a probe: has no batteries to run flat. can be clipped onto an earth with the probe sticking into something and seen from 10 feet away - so you could be pressing a button on the dash and watching the light in the engine bay or bad of the car...

Many thanks for the offer but I've JUST sorted it out. As mentioned above there is a telltale light on the TD5 dash (which I have wired to my 300TDi). So I've just connected the wire (which was already there but not connected!).

Thanks, just found it. I'll connect that up to it. Yes I could connect all three to it with 3 diodes but I'm adding the switches etc to the Raptor dash :D

The wiring is all working, it's just the warning light and it appears I was right so will add a warning light that I can see or more likely I'll just use a spare switch on the raptor dash. I'll put the heated windscreen, heated mirrors and heated rear screen next to each other :)

Well after a bit of a rummage it appears that maybe my 300TDi should have had the non lighting switch because there is a warning light on the dash instead. I've lost the warning light because I fitted a TD5 dash and coincidentally the non lighting switch was replaced by a lighting one sometime...

OK, I've had the landy nearly 3 years and never had a working heated window. I tested the element a couple of years ago and it was beyond repair but never got round to replacing it. I've picked up a new rear window and went to check the wiring to find that the wiring still works but the light...

Have you had a look at my tutorial yet?