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When you're rebuilding an entire vehicle from scratch, one finds one is less-stressed by subcontracting certain tasks ;)

Turns out there was nothing wrong with the brake lines, and after a little bit of bending, the rigid pipes are now connected to the flexi hoses. The rear axle is also in place, having removed the wheels to clear the rear crossmember, then mandraulically moving the axle a few feet further...

I would concur with this.

I used this thread to guide me: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/11685-drum-brake-110-salisbury-disc-brake-conversion/ My local engineering firm manufactured some 6mm spacers, using the caliper bracket as a template. Check out post #74 of my rebuild thread to see the results: Sting Ray's '89 90...

Having researched the different sorts of flares and flaring techniques, I agree! :) I'll take it to my mate round the corner who will hopefully be able to add the double flare.

So in the attached photo you will see that both the extended brake hose and the rigid brake line have convex flares on the end; this doesn’t look right to me.

As usual, certain tasks have taken much longer than anticipated, and whoever designed the rear fuel tank securing arrangement should be shot!!! Even with a jack and another pair of hands, there orifice is slightly too small to enable stress-free fitting, and the bolt-plate arrangement is just...

Thanks - it's always nice to receive feedback :) Today I potted about and did a few odd jobs - a mate was over with his Disco 2 to wire up his winch, so I was a little distracted. I did however manage to: Fit bump stops Re-bush trailing and radius arms, as well as the fulcrum link arms Fit...

This weekend I aim to: See if I can collect the powdercoated trailing/radius arms and blasted bellhousing. Applying what I damned well hope will be the last of the 2k top coat to the chassis. Paint the rear tank (the guard/cradle has already been painted). Once the exterior has cured, Dinitrol...

Make that 4 litres of topcoat :-(

Jerry is just over the border in Hants, and whilst a little bit rough round the edges, knows everything there is to know about LRs, and does a very good job; very helpful too. Lewis Landrover Specialists Ltd, Unit 11, Woodmans Farm, Curdridge Lane, Curdridge in Curdridge, Phone 07972 150814

Just wow... This is a great thread!

You're welcome to seek inspiration from my thread about completely rebuilding a 110 300tdi for overlanding. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/sting-rays-89-90-complete-restoration.317719/

In order to retain the original registration, the chassis must be original and unmodified, or new and to the same specification as the original, and direct from the manufacturer. It is likely that your mods would count as a Radically Altered Vehicle...

Yeah I've changed my approach (I think) to that. There will be a single supply and return at the pump, with two manually operated valves in the engine bay that can draw/return fuel back to each tank. When one runs close to empty, all I need to do is hop out, operate the valves, then jump back...

Thanks Ash :) I suspect there was an incompatibility with the acid etch primer and the chassis black (1k). If I had used high build in between, it most likely wouldn't have happened. So I suppose I'd recommend adopting this approach as well, or using a chassis black that is compatible with acid...

FYI, when I spoke to my mate's vehicle painter (I should have spoken to him first!!!), he said that a decent etch primer (U-Pol Acid #8 is good, and is what I used), follwed by a decent quality "Chassis Black" is all one should need for a chassis...so long as it is latter is compatible with the...

You could try attempting to remove it whilst the engine is nice and hot - thermal expansion does wonders.

Thanks :-) I've learnt a lot about paint recently!